Poor MPG. Tune-up suggestions?

[22229stingray81]

Okay, I figured out how to get it open. I think the only tear I see is in the dust boot. Still can't get the link clevis off.

-Tatortot

 

[GerryLP]

Keep soaking it. The torch might work, but if you overheat the rod, you run into possibly damaging the diaphragm on the inside end of the rod. Probably not worth it. Just keep soaking it.

 

[22229stingray81]

I found the actuator on eBay for $49, and considering the inner diaphragm might be what's bad (I can't see any cracks on the outer boot), and the price (including shipping) being very close, I might as well get the whole new actuator.

That still leaves me needing a clevis (if I can't free this one) and the elusive clevis sleeve, which looks like only the major parts suppliers carry, of course.


-Tatortot

 

[GerryLP]

Wait, wait!!! lol

Just check actuator with the vacuum pump. But you see on your image that piece of rubber around the shaft? That's part of the seal at the actuator housing. Just saying

 

[22229stingray81]

I did check it with a vacuum pump, and there is a leak.

Ya sure that rubber around the shaft is part of the seal? It looks like it came off of the dust boot to me. I haven't ordered anything yet; don't worry! :L

But if I can't get the dang clevis off tomorrow I'm gonna start throwing money at it!

-Tatortot

Edit: Crap, Gerry, you're right again. It is part of the seal and not the dust boot.

 

[GerryLP]

Well, and again. The vacuum pump check is inconclusive without the new seal. Sorry for confusing you. The seal is relatively cheap. So you try the seal, and then replace the actuator if it doesn't fix it. I used dielectric grease on inside of seal to install it. The reason was I didn't want to use regular grease that could weaken the rubber material.

 

[Peer81]

You can check the diagram with a vacuumpump on the rear vacuumport. For checking the front part you need a new seal.

Greetings Peter

 

[22229stingray81]

Okay, I managed to get the clevis off today. Just ordered a new seal and dust cover (not sure I needed a new one but why not). Now we're rollin'!


-Tatortot

 

[22229stingray81]

Alright, I got the new seal in, and after breaking off the tabs to the retaining ring, and popping over to Zip for a replacement, it is all back together. Now the passenger side is faster than the driver side. :L Luckily I have another seal/dustboot/seal ring on order, so I guess I'll do the driver's side while I'm at it. I attached a short video of the lights going up and down if anyone is interested. We're getting closer

-Tatortot

Corvette lights video.

 

[Antz81]

Alright, I got the new seal in, and after breaking off the tabs to the retaining ring, and popping over to Zip for a replacement, it is all back together. Now the passenger side is faster than the driver side. :L Luckily I have another seal/dustboot/seal ring on order, so I guess I'll do the driver's side while I'm at it. I attached a short video of the lights going up and down if anyone is interested. We're getting closer

-Tatortot

Corvette lights video.

Yours seem to be doing the opposite of mine. (my passenger side is slower) I guess I'll be having the same fun as you once I get around to checking the vacuum system for the headlights.:L

 

[GerryLP]

Alright, I got the new seal in, and after breaking off the tabs to the retaining ring, and popping over to Zip for a replacement, it is all back together. Now the passenger side is faster than the driver side. :L Luckily I have another seal/dustboot/seal ring on order, so I guess I'll do the driver's side while I'm at it. I attached a short video of the lights going up and down if anyone is interested. We're getting closer

-Tatortot

Corvette lights video.

Tator,

congratulations!!!

Yes, the lights will pop up unevenly everytime. It all depends whether you are at idle, on the road, or under load. no a problem.

How's your idle? Is it idling smoother?

 

[22229stingray81]

Gerry,

I haven't driven it since the repair. Just turned it over to check out the lights yesterday afternoon. I'll report back when I give her a spin!

Oh, while she was up on ramps, I decided to clean out all the debris from between the radiator and A/C condenser. I bought a length of 1/2" PVC tubing, and duct taped it to my vacuum nozzle, and that was the perfect diameter to fit in between the two. I sucked up this red plastic piece from the bottom. Look familiar at all? It has a "2" embossed on the back of it. Looks a little like a bulb socket.

-Tatortot

 

[22229stingray81]

And yet another update: I decided to do the driver's side light as well. The seal was indeed perished, as I suspected it would be. I could NOT get the clevis off. I soaked it in WD-40 for 2 days. I broke 3 tools trying to get it off. No luck, so as a ditch effort to save me a little dough, I drilled a hole in the actuator rod. Big enough to get a really heavy nail in there, and FINALLY after giving it all my strength, it broke free. I put in a new seal, ring, and dust boot, got it all back together, and it works great! Here's another video of it. I actually got the lights to go down together after this. Amazing! Now I gotta do another long drive and see if the idle is any better. Thanks for the help so far, and stay tuned all!


-Tatortot

 

[22229stingray81]

Okay, I went for a 10 or so mile drive on a warm day. I checked the flaps inside the air cleaner before I started out, and they were closed. I came back, put the 'vette in park, but kept it idling, and the flaps were still closed. Is there a procedure to test the vacuum "packs" on top of the air cleaner snorkels? The engine looked good and warmed up judging by oil and coolant temps, so I expected to see them wide-open. Do I understand how they work correctly? Thanks.


-Tatortot

 

[Antz81]

Okay, I went for a 10 or so mile drive on a warm day. I checked the flaps inside the air cleaner before I started out, and the closed. I came back, put the 'vette in park, but kept it idling, and the flaps were still closed. Is there a procedure to test the vacuum "packs" on top of the air cleaner snorkels? The engine looked good and warmed up judging by oil and coolant temps, so I expected to see them wide-open. Do I understand how they work correctly? Thanks.


-Tatortot

They should have been opened by then.
They're vacuum operated so a vacuum test should let you know if the motors are working. If the motors are working it could be the thermal switch in the air cleaner.

 

[22229stingray81]

Gotcha, thanks! I'll put a vacuum pump on them and test it out.


-Tatortot

 

[Antz81]

Can't remember if vacuum makes it open or close. Think it makes it open. FSM will say

 

[GerryLP]

Antz, I also was leaning the same way, but then I remember seen the flaps Open with the air cleaner off the engine, so I verified in the book, and the flaps are spring-loaded open.

The THERMAC thermostat senses the air coming in and the bi-metalic leaf spring blocks vacuum signal (air bleed valve on the sensor fully open), the flap vacuum motors' springs force the flaps open.

On the left side of air cleaner, the rising heat from the stove shields on the left manifold enters the air cleaner when the left vacuum motor has vacuum signal applied, and when not, the metal cap under the flap blocks hot air from entering.

This feature has an effect of aiding the enrichment of the fuel/air mixture ratio on a cold engine.

 

[22229stingray81]

I couldn't find a test procedure in the FSM, only how to remove and replace the motors and Thermac sensor thing. But I guess what you're saying Gerry is they should be default open (before engine is turned on), correct? I'm going to put a vacuum pump on there anyways and see if I can get them flapping away. I don't think I tested all the vac lines attached to the air cleaner, so might as well test those too.


-Tatortot

 

[Antz81]

I couldn't find a test procedure in the FSM, only how to remove and replace the motors and Thermac sensor thing. But I guess what you're saying Gerry is they should be default open (before engine is turned on), correct? I'm going to put a vacuum pump on there anyways and see if I can get them flapping away. I don't think I tested all the vac lines attached to the air cleaner, so might as well test those too.


-Tatortot

Found it in mine. starts on page 6E - 16 (heading at very bottom, checks on next page).
Gerry's right, with no vacuum they should be open, apply vacuum to make them close.
The passenger side door should be closed at all times with the engine running, only opening at WOT.