Power Buffing

[andrewc4]

I'm going to pick up a Poter Cable 7424. Meguiar's recommends a yellow pad with M80 Speed Glaze followed by a tan foam finishing pad with NXT Tech Wax.

Question 1. I'm sure Meguiar's sells a good pad. Any other recommendations?

Question 2. If I understand what I've read, the Glaze/Wax is applied with the PC7424 until it hazes or disappears, and any remainder is removed by hand. Is this correct?

My goal: My 94 polo green coupe C4 has good paint, but I've got swirl and many light scratches that can only be seen in the right light. I hand wax lightly every wash, (daily driver is washed weekly, especially during rainy season). I want to remove the swirl and scratches and expect to leave only the few scratches that have penetrated through the clear coat.

Questioin 3. The road dust in South Florida is very, very abrasive. My father says because the roads are built with crushed limestone. Should I wax the roof panel with a good carnuba was to protect it? (I think yes). Should I polish it? (I think no).

Question 4. I read praises of Zaino on the form, but I've also seen Zaino mentioned as a hand application only. Does anyone use Zaino with the Porter Cable?

Thanks in advance, any recommendations appreciated.

 

[JonM]

I just wanted to mention, you MUST know what you are doing with a power buffer...you can burn through the paint in an instant if you are not careful...Just a word of caution.

 

[andrewc4]

Understood, thanks.

I'm doing a lot of research and going to test the procedure on my 98 Windstar first.

How's that for a set of priorities?

 

[4DSZR1]

I use the Porter Cable buffer you mention and LOVE it. My 92's black paint looks great! Your method and choice of product sounds fine. There are many combinations that work for me. I like the Meguire products. I've tried some of the other high-priced products and really cant tell enough difference to justify the costs.
To prevent possble rub through problems, I apply blue masking tape over the front hood gaps and door handles.

 

[4DSZR1]

Sorry about the double post.... :ugh

 

[6 Shooter]

Yep, ruin/practice on the Ford 1st!

As JonM said, I've seen people burn a lot of clear coat and it goes away fast, especially on edges/corners.

I waxed the lexan top of my C4 with Mothers all the time, it made it look like new except for the small stress cracks in the front corners.

FYI - Turtle Wax® Ice™

Later . . . . . .
6 Shooter

 

[andrewc4]

Good idea with the masking tape and the recommendation to avoid edges/corners.

Thanks, very good point.

 

[1993first]

About power polishing

Chek this out you can see a video of ploishing etc. on this sitr after you sign in fro FREE. Very GOOD products I use them on my 93 Ruby Red and it looks great.



http://www.adamspolishes.com/site/department.cfm?id=1399AFFF-B3B2-4A39-A26A201A6FC206D2&killnav=1

 

[LT4man]

I love the Adam's products. He has a great DVD even a seasoned detailer would learn from!

I would definitely, absolutely, positively use a clay bar first.

JMHO!

SAVE THE WAVE!

 

[John Robinson]

Another Veiw

Over the years I have used the Maguire's 3 step process to restore the shine to my cars. I don't have a Porter Cable polisher I use a Craftsman with terry cloth pads. The first step is a deep cleaner and I make sure I keep the surface wet. Even if I use the whole bottle on one car. Next come the sealer for the clear coat and then the liquid carnuba wax. I use the polisher to remove most of the first two steps along with had rubbing with a towel. The last step I rub on by hand and remove by hand to avoid polisher swirls. I then finish off with the NXT from Maguire's. After each washing when the car is dry and cool I go over it with Maguire's NXT detailer. At this point it is real easy to everything by hand because the surface of the car has all the air pollution removed. As you can see from my picture with this post I think my polo green is deep and beautiful.

 

[andrewc4]

The picture is small but the car does look nice. We almost have twins, note that mine is a 94 polo green.

Thanks for detailed explanation.

 

[WhalePirot]

Sorry about the double post.... :ugh

You can delete
them.

The tape is a great recommendation. Ensure that the pad never 'angles' across any edge, but stays parallel to one surface or the other.

Also, while it may seem obvious, you can never re-colorize faded colors beneath a clear coat.

I have used a Milwaukee gringer/polisher, more carefully every time, as I learn what to/not-to-do. On my black car, I use it mostly to remove polish quickly. My best results are by hand work, though. I love the clay bar for sap, etc. removal.