Pulling propeller shaft

[Doug'sL81]

Hey everyone,

I'm finding out the joys of replacing u-joints. I figured I needed to replace all of them while I'm at it and have successfully done the half shafts. Now I want to tackle the drive shaft replace the u-joints and the rear tranny seal and I'm trying to figure out how to pull it. The assembly manual and service manual seem to indicate that I have to remove the differential carrier assembly. Am I wrong (please say yes)? Has anyone pulled the drive (propeller) shaft?

And now for a totally unrelated question has anyone dealt with the engine factory, I'm very interested in their crate engines and they seem to be

Thanks

Doug.

 

[Doug'sL81]

I ment to say the engine factory seem to be a legit company.

 

[Yoda]

.....The assembly manual and service manual seem to indicate that I have to remove the differential carrier assembly. Am I wrong (please say yes)? Has anyone pulled the drive (propeller) shaft?

Yes! You can pull the main shaft without removing the carrier assembly! Leave the car in neutral so you can rotate the tires to get to all the bolts on the U-Joint clamps. Also just a tip here but if you jack the rear end up high enough, be sure to have the front wheels blocked, and use quality Jack Stands.. you will prevent a lot of the transmission fluid from runnnnnninnng out.. but have a piece of plastic (fairly heavy duty) and some electrical tape when you get ready to pull the front of the shaft out of the tranny.. cover the tail housing with the plastic and tape it.

I guess you found the star socket you need if not sears carries them. Oh ... an one last thing.. be sure to mark the main shaft and the rear carrier, to insure the drive line stays balanced

As much fun as your having.. Please remember to be safe under that 3,000 + lbs of fiberglass and steel

Now.. the second question:

... ....has anyone dealt with the engine factory, I'm very interested in their crate engines and they seem to be a legit company.

Nope, I've never delt with them, to be honest I don't know anything about them, But, I did stay at a Howard Johnson Express in Columbia, Missouri and the way back to California from SharkFest :J :dance

 

[Doug'sL81]

Thanks Rare,

I'll follow all your tips. Right now I have the car on four jacks 3000 Lbs each, one pair from sears and the other from NAPA, plus I have the tires tucked under the frame and the jack under it as well. I though that it was safer to have the whole car up rather than just the rear. Still, I'm thinking of getting a pair of six ton jacks for extra measure of safety. I didn't have a star socket so I used 1/4" 12 point which worked well. Do I need the star socket? Is it ok to use a touch of blue loctite on the bolts?

 

[Yoda]

Doug,

It sounds like you have everything under control It's nice to hear about another L81'er working on their own ride,,, and doing it safely.. 1/4 12 point is the one, loctite I'm not sure about, sounds like a great Idea to me.. When I did the ones on Rare I found that RUST was every bit as good a Loctite

Keep up the good work Doug! For me it's therapy just to be under the belly of the beast ... bonding at it's best except for driving

BudD

 

[DDLS3]

Doug,

A bit of blue loctite is a good idea. In fact if you buy replacement bolts they will come pre-applied with blue loctite. BTW if you need new bolts you can get them from your local Chevy dealer as I did last year. Be advised though that the book shows 3 different choices for bolts and straps.

 

[Doug'sL81]

Thanks,

It's been a while since I've gotten down and dirty with a car when I was in the Navy I built up a 73 Camaro for fun, in college working on my car was out of necessity couldn't afford to go to a mechanic. The new cars today didn't offer much opportunity to wrench. I do stuff with the harleys but it's not the same. Now that I'm into my second or third childhood (depends on my wife's view) I get a kick out of trying to work on my dream car (Vette) myself. Of course I have a brother-in-law that is very mechanically inclined and is helpful but I try not to bother him too much he (works nights and many weekends) and I have you guys (and gals) too, who have specific experience with the 81, which is invaluable to me. Someday I hope to return the same as I get my own experience.

Thanks for all your help

Doug

 

[ZAL81]

I replaced all the star type bolts with allenhead bolts, Rounded off one of the star type when I changed my u-joints. Made for a heck of a time getting it out. I would suggest soaking them in some sort of penetrating oil overnight to help the process along. With the allenhead bolts it shouldn't be as much as a PITA the next time I have to drop the driveshaft. Just my opinion! ZAL81

 

[sixty9vette]

Check out this pic (too big to post here).

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=390509

The smaller one is what us auto tranny folks have and the larger one for the manual tranny cars. Bummer. In '82 (all A/T's I believe), they used the larger ones.

I would recommend thread locker (blue is ok) due to the low bolt torque. Torque those 1/4" bolts as spec'd (15 ft.lbs, but you'll want to verify that). Get them too tight and you risk deforming the caps, leading to early failure. A custom strap is made to replace the stamped straps we have, but they are waaaay too pricey for me (over $200). There are pics of those on the C3 SharkTank site. http://www.c3sharktank.com/tech2/ujointcaps.html I don't know how the 'big' straps would minimize shearing a u-joint, which is what happened to me. I guess the idea is to keep the straps from breaking (I've never heard of a strap breaking!). The kit also comes with larger bolts, so you have to drill and tap for it (bit & tap supplied).

Anyway, I've been looking for parts to replace my setup to what the manual tranny guys have (halfshafts, side yokes and spindle flanges. Definately not readily available either. Best price so far... over $700!! ($150 ea. for the spindle u-joint flange!! I'm in the wrong business!

 

[Doug'sL81]

Actually the bolts came out with little fuss. I do; however, like allen heads and I may go that route. You wouldn't happen to have the specs on your bolts would you? As far as beefier straps, it sounds like a good idea but I'm going to hold off on that. When I install the new engine, then I'll look in to that more closely. Again thanks for all your input ZAL81 and 81Chris.

 

[DDLS3]

Doug,

All socket head cap screws(as they are refered to) are heat treated. The grade rate is roughly equal to an 8 although they are not rated as such. Another option is to replace the bolts with GM replacements that have a 6 point head (not a 12) available from GM for about a buck apiece. Unless your planning a really beefy engine project for your L81, save your money. The history of breakage on the stock strap is almost non-existent.