Rounded bolt head

[The73vetteman]

Well I've gone done a dumb thing. I was removing the bolts that hold the saddle over the prop shaft universal joint when the socket slipped off. :duh

Now I can't find a way to get a grip on the bolt head to undo it.

Suggestions anyone (apart from 'go find a real mechanic')?

J

 

[fine69]

I had a steering knuckle/caliper bolt that was completely rounded. I had to get a friend to arc weld a bolt to the top of the rounded head. I then used a six-point socket and copious amounts of PB Blaster to remove the culprit bolt.

As another alternative - Sears has a special socket that grips rounded-off nuts or bolts. This may work if the rounded bolt is not too frozen.

Ralph

 

[Crimson Thunder]

Those Sears Craftsman sockets work well.My dad had to purchase some for his 65 "bubba" Mustang.

 

[bossvette]

Those Sears Craftsman sockets work well.My dad had to purchase some for his 65 "bubba" Mustang.

Yup one of the more useful tools my Wife bought me in Christmas past, well worth the money spent.
Do not use with an air tools.

 

[tonyvdb]

Another thing that will sometimes work is to use a metrix that is just a little small and pound to on with a hammer. A little cured maybe but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

 

[SPANISHVETTS]

I had a steering knuckle/caliper bolt that was completely rounded. I had to get a friend to arc weld a bolt to the top of the rounded head. I then used a six-point socket and copious amounts of PB Blaster to remove the culprit bolt.


Ralph

This is the best way! It is the only method we use to remove stripped bolts. The heat that builds up in the bolt from the welding helps to break the threads free as well.

 

[The73vetteman]

Guys,
Thank you for the suggestions. Maybe it's time I learned to weld!

Here's where I am right now: went down to Sears and purchased their Craftsman bolt extraction kit (had to buy the kit 'cause they were out of stock of the individual size I needed). Got home, drilled the hole, inserted tool, as per the pathetic Sears instructions, and guess what... the extractor snapped. This is the second Craftsman tool I've had break on me. Do they still have their lifetime warranty?

And I still have this bolt stuck in the transmission yoke. Any suggestions for a non-welder?

J

 

[zachh]

They'll take it back, if its a handtool. Try a pair of vice grips and heat the bolt up with a propane torch... my guess.
Good Luck
zachh

 

[fine69]

... drilled the hole, inserted tool, as per the pathetic Sears instructions, and guess what... the extractor snapped...
J

The Craftsman tool I was referring to is not the tap and reverse drill type that you purchased. Rather, it's a specialized socket that has teeth inside that grip the rounded head as you torque it counter-clockwise. You should give it a try. I would also ask for a refund while at Sears.

Ralph

 

[IH2LOSE]

This is what you need

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00952061000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Taps+%26+Dies&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
Find the closest size and get it on level/square as you try to lossen the bolt, the socket twist's and pulls it self in and the bolt has no choice but to come out.

Squirt it with a little pb blaster ,short wrap with a hammer, let it soak an hour

Go back and remove the stuborn part

Good luck

 

[SPANISHVETTS]

Guys,
Thank you for the suggestions. Maybe it's time I learned to weld!

Here's where I am right now: went down to Sears and purchased their Craftsman bolt extraction kit (had to buy the kit 'cause they were out of stock of the individual size I needed). Got home, drilled the hole, inserted tool, as per the pathetic Sears instructions, and guess what... the extractor snapped. This is the second Craftsman tool I've had break on me. Do they still have their lifetime warranty?

And I still have this bolt stuck in the transmission yoke. Any suggestions for a non-welder?

J

We should have warned you to N E V E R use the drill and screw extractors. In over 40 years of wrenching I can not remember if I ever saw one actually remove a bolt. When you screw it into the drilled out bolt all it does is expand the bolt and worsen the condition.

Short of the welding solution these are the best extractors available as long as there is some head left they will usually do the job.

If this does not get the bolt out find a buddy with a welder or hire a welder to get it out – it will cost less to hire a welder than replacing the casting.

Whatever you do, do not drill any deeper into the bolt. That is a never ending process that will leave you having to re-tap the part with the female threads. Most of today’s castings are to thin to drill and tap to a larger bolt which leaves you using a heli-coil. (thread insert) or having the casting welded, drilled and tapped with the cost escalating from mildly expensive to Ouch – wish I had not done that.:cry

IMHO The person who invented the tapered, reverse screw extractors should be castrated with a pair of rusty wire cutters.:eek

 

[Mac]

IMHO The person who invented the tapered, reverse screw extractors should be castrated with a pair of rusty wire cutters.:eek

I want to do the guy who invented torx bolts first.

-Mac

 

[bossvette]

Guys,

And I still have this bolt stuck in the transmission yoke. Any suggestions for a non-welder?

J

is it out of the car?
If its just the trans yoke I would just get another one rather then screwing around with the old one. But if you must have that particular yoke remove the other bolts and you should be able to seperate it from the driveshaft, and find someone with a Mill to drill the old bolt out.

 

[rainman]

I used the tools pictured above recently to remove a stripped lig nut. Worked great. We'll worth the price and worth a try.

 

[The73vetteman]

Well thanks again guys for all the suggestions. Unfortunatley at 7/16" the bolt is too small for the Sears set.

Yes it is still in the car. I tried the metric socket approach, but no joy. Part of the problem is that the bolt is up against the strap that does over the U-joint, so I cant get anything seated on it properly. I think I'll be going with the brute force approach later today.

Wish me luck!

 

[goingballistic]

Don't know where you are with this but I found that if you use a flat head punch on the bolt head and smack it a few times, it's breaks the rust layer up on the threads and destroys the bond of the rust. If it's still in there and you can get to it, give it a try, you might get lucky, it's worked for me in the past.

Good luck.

 

[Culprit]

If you don't have a welder, vice grips and PB Blaster are worth a shot.

As for Craftsman tools - the warranty doesn't apply to "consumable" items. They will replace your hammer and rachets, but when it comes to drill bits and the like, you're out of luck.

For stipped bolt heads on smaller, low torque applications, I have been successful cutting a notch in the head and using a flathead screwdriver.

 

[The73vetteman]

Well I hammered at the saddle strap and managed to drop the driveshaft. After that the yoke slid out easily and I held it in a vise while I removed the bolt.

Good things some Vette parts are inexpensive!

Thanks to all for your advice.

J

 

[bmotojoe]

This approach has worked for me in the past: Purchase a cheep 6 point boxed end wrench. Put the wrench on the bolt in the position where you have most leverage on it. Mark the wrench at the center of the flat spot where you have the most access. Now with a #21 drill bit, drill a hole in the wrench @ center line where the bolt head is. If you have the room on the bolt head center punch the bolt head where you made the mark and use the same #21 bit to make a dimple in the head of the bolt. Now using a 10/32 thread tap, tap the 10/32 hole you drilled in the wrench. Install a 10/32 set screw in the wrench. Put the wrench on the bolt aligning the set screw with the dimple you drilled and tighten with an alan wrench. This should keep the wrench secured on bolt.
Also, I have had good results using ez-outs if they are installed correctly.
Brian

 

[bossvette]

This approach has worked for me in the past: Purchase a cheep 6 point boxed end wrench. Put the wrench on the bolt in the position where you have most leverage on it. Mark the wrench at the center of the flat spot where you have the most access. Now with a #21 drill bit, drill a hole in the wrench @ center line where the bolt head is. If you have the room on the bolt head center punch the bolt head where you made the mark and use the same #21 bit to make a dimple in the head of the bolt. Now using a 10/32 thread tap, tap the 10/32 hole you drilled in the wrench. Install a 10/32 set screw in the wrench. Put the wrench on the bolt aligning the set screw with the dimple you drilled and tighten with an alan wrench. This should keep the wrench secured on bolt.
Also, I have had good results using ez-outs if they are installed correctly.
Brian

I'm gonna remember that one
I have a set of 4 sided EZ-outs thats 40 years old that work much better then the spiral ones.