- Thread starter
- #141
WhalePirot
Well-known member
Just being honest here. No worries. As long a someone learns from the errs of the trials. 
Shinoda start
- Thread starter WhalePirot
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #142
WhalePirot
Well-known member
Now, looking for a shop to test the ignition module. AFAIK, the coil tests okay, but the spark disappeared after that shortish test run.
Some forums say it is real tough to find a good module, even brand new, or from once-respected vendors.
Anyone know how to test a computer controlled module? O'Reilley's rents plenty of specialized equipment but of three stores, nearby, none can test the module, an dI am not sure I want to trust PepBoys or AutoZone.
My DVOM waits, even tho I ordered two closeout modules(~$25) from RockAuto.
Some forums say it is real tough to find a good module, even brand new, or from once-respected vendors.
Anyone know how to test a computer controlled module? O'Reilley's rents plenty of specialized equipment but of three stores, nearby, none can test the module, an dI am not sure I want to trust PepBoys or AutoZone.
My DVOM waits, even tho I ordered two closeout modules(~$25) from RockAuto.
- Thread starter
- #143
WhalePirot
Well-known member
Billet Door Props!
An electrical shop tested all three modules, and all were positive, including the original. The cheapo spark tester I bought lights up, but with zero documentation, I have no idea how much juice is traveling the plug wire. I am just glad I have no pacemaker, because, well..... I thought I was holding a nonconductive portion of the screwdriver! :duh
I had the alternator upgraded to 120A to try to keep up with the 4x100 mbQuart amplifier. Those 8" subs, 'back there' really ROCK!! The back massage is nice, but the rearview mirror images are all fuzzy!
Okay.. the title: I bought a pair of door props, from a machinist who has owned his '56 F100 for 55 years. Attending a picnic with fellow owners, many of whom have their Effies sitting on Corvette suspensions (like mine), I saw these. The props keep the too-curious out of the car at shows, while allowing a good view inside. Opting for his universal version, I can use them in the Corvette (shown), the '55 Effie or '55 Nash Rambler. Taking the hint from his truck install, I drilled and tapped existing rivets in the door jamb and on the door to accept the #6 attachment screws. When the props are out, you'd never know the holes exist. I chose the rivets, which are MUCH softer metal than the hinge bolts or other door hardware (two broken drills and a tap); the holes being perfect for the tap size.
These are polished billet aluminum, with tapped keeper holes for the finger screws when stored in the (wife-made) double-sleeve bag. I appreciate his old-school touches, from the thoughtful non-destructive mount, the hardware keeper, the felt-lined wood boxes he kept his wares in, to the labelled, brown paper wrapping over the delivered product.
An electrical shop tested all three modules, and all were positive, including the original. The cheapo spark tester I bought lights up, but with zero documentation, I have no idea how much juice is traveling the plug wire. I am just glad I have no pacemaker, because, well..... I thought I was holding a nonconductive portion of the screwdriver! :duh
I had the alternator upgraded to 120A to try to keep up with the 4x100 mbQuart amplifier. Those 8" subs, 'back there' really ROCK!! The back massage is nice, but the rearview mirror images are all fuzzy!
Okay.. the title: I bought a pair of door props, from a machinist who has owned his '56 F100 for 55 years. Attending a picnic with fellow owners, many of whom have their Effies sitting on Corvette suspensions (like mine), I saw these. The props keep the too-curious out of the car at shows, while allowing a good view inside. Opting for his universal version, I can use them in the Corvette (shown), the '55 Effie or '55 Nash Rambler. Taking the hint from his truck install, I drilled and tapped existing rivets in the door jamb and on the door to accept the #6 attachment screws. When the props are out, you'd never know the holes exist. I chose the rivets, which are MUCH softer metal than the hinge bolts or other door hardware (two broken drills and a tap); the holes being perfect for the tap size.
These are polished billet aluminum, with tapped keeper holes for the finger screws when stored in the (wife-made) double-sleeve bag. I appreciate his old-school touches, from the thoughtful non-destructive mount, the hardware keeper, the felt-lined wood boxes he kept his wares in, to the labelled, brown paper wrapping over the delivered product.
Attachments
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2003
- Messages
- 5,475
- Location
- Ottawa, Canuckistan
- Corvette
- 1973 coupe L82 (gone as casualty of divorce)
Slick idea. I've never seen such a thing at shows but it does make sense!
-Mac
-Mac
Schrade
Well-known member
Where are you now on it? (looks like 10 pages, and I'm gonna' stop here at pg 2).
Schrade
Well-known member
Holy COW!!! This thread is almost 3 years old???
Might be time to call Vinnie the Torch!
WOW.
Might be time to call Vinnie the Torch!
WOW.
- Thread starter
- #147
WhalePirot
Well-known member
No worries. Some like it enough to send PMs, for the evolving project. Not always is a thread's age a sole determinant of its value.
Currently chasing a hot start problem, as related in the speed density thread. Frustrating hardly describes my mien.
Thanks for the comments and wishes in advance, aboatguy, and any others. Whaddya think, I, you others am psychic?
Last edited:
aboatguy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2005
- Messages
- 424
- Location
- Slidell Louisiana
- Corvette
- AI head/cam/intake, Vig converter, D44, EM LTs etc
Great thread, I've literally been following it for years now. I hope you get your vette on the street soon
- Thread starter
- #149
WhalePirot
Well-known member
Dude.. You did it! I drove over to fill the gas tank! Then, the car went totally dead when I turned the key to leave. The only tool I had was my cell phone (dumb a**), but I reached back to the battery (+) and everything lit up. Huh? Obviously, loose cable.
Short story: with all the hot start problems, one replaced item was the battery, upsized to a group 91 Interstate with 800CCA, versus the 610 that barely fit and was 6+ years old and only producing 525 CCA. The 1" longer battery would only fit if I unscrewed the frame for the storage compartment covers; then began the wrestling match with the large #2 power cables, none too long for resistance and fitment, and hardly flexible. The (+) terminal is forward, pretty well recessed in that hole and has 2 other cables: one smaller, for the mounted NAPA trickle charger and the other a #2 that 'eels' back to the 100A fuse for the big power amp. Well, I did my best to get it on and tight, but it'd moved; a 20 minute fix. By gosh, I showed that copper who's boss (for now)!
Two other items that some may find useful:
1) courtesy of HotRodRoy, one of those quiet, always cheerful types who know a LOT about this car thing; lubing under the hood striker plates. There is no adjustment to them; 3 bolts hold each in place,then the release cable can be eased off without changing its adjustment. I cleaned and prepped each plate (marked L and R) then painted them. Next day, I lubed them with a lithium grease (correct, Rod?) and reinstalled. The old grease was dirty and hard but had never caused me to need the alternate hood release method.
2) the fuel rail had not held pressure after a prior R/R. The (Bosch) injectors had been cleaned and tested by a superb shop in Torrance. I could smell a faint gasoline odor when the rail pressurized, but see no leak, until an obvious O-raing failure. Previously mentioned, the new part is the replacement of them all has restored the proper pressure holding characteristic.
Hopefully, this w/e will see some miles (and an eventless return) on this dastardly fast corvette that happens to draw oohs and ahhs for its appearance.
Short story: with all the hot start problems, one replaced item was the battery, upsized to a group 91 Interstate with 800CCA, versus the 610 that barely fit and was 6+ years old and only producing 525 CCA. The 1" longer battery would only fit if I unscrewed the frame for the storage compartment covers; then began the wrestling match with the large #2 power cables, none too long for resistance and fitment, and hardly flexible. The (+) terminal is forward, pretty well recessed in that hole and has 2 other cables: one smaller, for the mounted NAPA trickle charger and the other a #2 that 'eels' back to the 100A fuse for the big power amp. Well, I did my best to get it on and tight, but it'd moved; a 20 minute fix. By gosh, I showed that copper who's boss (for now)!
Two other items that some may find useful:
1) courtesy of HotRodRoy, one of those quiet, always cheerful types who know a LOT about this car thing; lubing under the hood striker plates. There is no adjustment to them; 3 bolts hold each in place,then the release cable can be eased off without changing its adjustment. I cleaned and prepped each plate (marked L and R) then painted them. Next day, I lubed them with a lithium grease (correct, Rod?) and reinstalled. The old grease was dirty and hard but had never caused me to need the alternate hood release method.
2) the fuel rail had not held pressure after a prior R/R. The (Bosch) injectors had been cleaned and tested by a superb shop in Torrance. I could smell a faint gasoline odor when the rail pressurized, but see no leak, until an obvious O-raing failure. Previously mentioned, the new part is the replacement of them all has restored the proper pressure holding characteristic.
Hopefully, this w/e will see some miles (and an eventless return) on this dastardly fast corvette that happens to draw oohs and ahhs for its appearance.
C2C3C4
Well-known member
Stumbled upon this while surfing the other day. This convertible has an LS7 and a beautiful paint job!
- Thread starter
- #151
WhalePirot
Well-known member
Gorgeous, IMO.
Been putting some miles on mine while slowly gaining confidence in it's always starting, tho not a slam-dunk yet.
I did, finally test the tire-shredding and tho the new G/Y GS's are stickier, they spin like others!
otfl
Not sure about tire smoke, just yet.
Been putting some miles on mine while slowly gaining confidence in it's always starting, tho not a slam-dunk yet.
I did, finally test the tire-shredding and tho the new G/Y GS's are stickier, they spin like others!
otflNot sure about tire smoke, just yet.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2003
- Messages
- 5,475
- Location
- Ottawa, Canuckistan
- Corvette
- 1973 coupe L82 (gone as casualty of divorce)
I think I like your white Shinoda better than the anniversary red Shinoda.
-Mac
-Mac
- Thread starter
- #153
WhalePirot
Well-known member
Phoenix thread rises
Again, from the ashes...
I guess as long as I have the car, I'll never stop 'improving' it.
This long dormant headlight project has moved forward, with these CF pieces; still to be finished, of course. I have C6 headlight units that will go in these pieces, as soon as Jerri readies them. Like the C6, these will be fixed, not flippers.
Each is four layers thick; the 'bumps' will be painted flat black with the rest cleared, showing the CF.
The final challenge will be molding the clear covers.
Again, from the ashes...
I guess as long as I have the car, I'll never stop 'improving' it.This long dormant headlight project has moved forward, with these CF pieces; still to be finished, of course. I have C6 headlight units that will go in these pieces, as soon as Jerri readies them. Like the C6, these will be fixed, not flippers.
Each is four layers thick; the 'bumps' will be painted flat black with the rest cleared, showing the CF.
The final challenge will be molding the clear covers.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2003
- Messages
- 5,475
- Location
- Ottawa, Canuckistan
- Corvette
- 1973 coupe L82 (gone as casualty of divorce)
A great thread to get resurrected. I'm curious to see how the cf looks installed.
Mac
Mac
- Thread starter
- #155
WhalePirot
Well-known member
me too
Mac, you're too kind! That makes more than two of us. I'd previously shot a pic with the C6 headlights, cut down to two (no directionals), in the H/L holes, supported by sticks. It looked awesome, so I suspect that my artisan will deliver the goods beyond what I picture (no pun).
If you recall, we had a poster here, from the Netherlands, who had a blue C4 (maybe wrecked since) with fixed lights under plexi, plus some unique, and awesome wheels, and other mods. I forgot his name but remember those lights! My stock lights work just fine, never needed any repair, but I want that look!
The black CF will accent the black targa band and door handles.
Mac, you're too kind! That makes more than two of us. I'd previously shot a pic with the C6 headlights, cut down to two (no directionals), in the H/L holes, supported by sticks. It looked awesome, so I suspect that my artisan will deliver the goods beyond what I picture (no pun).
If you recall, we had a poster here, from the Netherlands, who had a blue C4 (maybe wrecked since) with fixed lights under plexi, plus some unique, and awesome wheels, and other mods. I forgot his name but remember those lights! My stock lights work just fine, never needed any repair, but I want that look!
The black CF will accent the black targa band and door handles.
- Thread starter
- #156
WhalePirot
Well-known member
ZF, next
I finally decided upon and bought a ZF6-40, remanufactured-for-GM black label 6-speed. I have been a staunch defender of the 4+3 and still like aspects of it, but.....
The current plan is McLeod hydraulic release bearing via stock master and pedals and to have ZFdoc blueprint and install it.
Researching the clutch package behind a steel SMF.
I think steel may be a better choice for a street driven car with a very aggressive cam that is difficult to launch smoothly, tho Hib recommended aluminum.
I finally decided upon and bought a ZF6-40, remanufactured-for-GM black label 6-speed. I have been a staunch defender of the 4+3 and still like aspects of it, but.....
The current plan is McLeod hydraulic release bearing via stock master and pedals and to have ZFdoc blueprint and install it.
Researching the clutch package behind a steel SMF.
I think steel may be a better choice for a street driven car with a very aggressive cam that is difficult to launch smoothly, tho Hib recommended aluminum.
G Winter
Well-known member
I agree on the steel flywheel. The aluminum would wind up quicker but the steel will make it much nicer to drive. If you have ever handle a Dual Mass flywheel you will understand what makes the L98 with the ZF so easy to start smoothly with. If all you did was 1/4 mile I would say aluminum,for street comfort the steel.
What did a rebult ZF cost if you care to share that info? I don't think I even want to know what the Doc will cost, the best don't come cheap.
What did a rebult ZF cost if you care to share that info? I don't think I even want to know what the Doc will cost, the best don't come cheap.
- Thread starter
- #158
WhalePirot
Well-known member
Let me start by saying that this is a steep learning curve, with tiny margins of error allowed for success. Both ill (ZFdoc) and Jim at PowerTorque are experts and helpful; a rare resource for those willing to listen to them, in this car hobby. We have all met some, purported experts who blow hard about this and that, then blame others for issues that arise. My personal experience is that 90+% of the shops and other 'experts' are dangerous to my car's health.
Jim's initial reply to my clutch questions was very discouraging, but I learned why, when he answered the telephone. He seems to be the go-to guy when ZF projects, especially conversions, 'go south'. Now, as a good guy, he has helped, oft for no personal reward or even compensation. The problem arises when he does so, then the caller disregards what is suggested. Why call an expert, only to disregard the advice?
We ended up spending up over an hour talking. I learned a lot. My project was termed a double conversion as my engine has the two piece rear seal and the 'normal' push type clutch. Besides the ZF employing a pull clutch, most cars have one-piece seals. The seal count is not the issue; the geometry is, meaning more than different bolt patterns and flange sizes.
The longitudinal clearances are critical to a successful install, especially as the ZF needs a 100% functioning hydraulic clutch to preclude synchro and gear damage. They are tough but precise units and their limited deployment is nudging repair costs skyward as parts stocks get depleted or almost worse, get sourced in China. Failures, for example, of the China-made release bearings runs about 10% of the 'real' ones, yet that stock is pretty much gone. Few, it seems, can tell from the part number, which are real and which are Chinese. Similar issues exist in clutch parts choices, as one after another once-reputable U.S. firms sells out their good name. Okay, I digress.
I paid $900, plus shipping, for the reman black label ZF alone. The alternatives are meager and many are unattractive, given the situation in the Corvette ZF arena, meaning boxes in need of repair due to poor hydraulics or incompetent 'repair'. The scarcity of competent technicians and parts, plus the costs, makes used ZFs an iffy proposition. One might imagine the future of ZF-equipped cars as bleak. My own view is that this is true of most of the new cars, regardless of price.
Tomorrow, at Jim's recommendation, I will speak with RAM about their HiPerf single disk conversion package and the special needs for my project. The tolerances, again, are critical to success, defined as smoothness and longterm reliability, w/o having to redo and redo.
Bill gets $700 for a rebuild, plus parts. With many of the larger parts running in the hundreds of dollars, it is easy to see that a cheap transmission, may not be. He is a reputed perfectionist, with attention to details. Who do you want working on your car and when have you seen the cheap route, stay so? Bill will do the install and I will help get this small group of experts on the same page, and LISTEN to them, so my unique C4 stays on the road for some time.
He agreed with my choice of steel flywheel, BTW, but not knowing the particulars of the existing FW, had no advice as to its use. Aluminum SMFs will also rattle more with a lumpy iding engine. Again, that crucial tolerance for full clutch engagement and full disengagement.
There is so much more; so many stories of hack jobs, but this is too long already.
Jim's initial reply to my clutch questions was very discouraging, but I learned why, when he answered the telephone. He seems to be the go-to guy when ZF projects, especially conversions, 'go south'. Now, as a good guy, he has helped, oft for no personal reward or even compensation. The problem arises when he does so, then the caller disregards what is suggested. Why call an expert, only to disregard the advice?
We ended up spending up over an hour talking. I learned a lot. My project was termed a double conversion as my engine has the two piece rear seal and the 'normal' push type clutch. Besides the ZF employing a pull clutch, most cars have one-piece seals. The seal count is not the issue; the geometry is, meaning more than different bolt patterns and flange sizes.
The longitudinal clearances are critical to a successful install, especially as the ZF needs a 100% functioning hydraulic clutch to preclude synchro and gear damage. They are tough but precise units and their limited deployment is nudging repair costs skyward as parts stocks get depleted or almost worse, get sourced in China. Failures, for example, of the China-made release bearings runs about 10% of the 'real' ones, yet that stock is pretty much gone. Few, it seems, can tell from the part number, which are real and which are Chinese. Similar issues exist in clutch parts choices, as one after another once-reputable U.S. firms sells out their good name. Okay, I digress.
I paid $900, plus shipping, for the reman black label ZF alone. The alternatives are meager and many are unattractive, given the situation in the Corvette ZF arena, meaning boxes in need of repair due to poor hydraulics or incompetent 'repair'. The scarcity of competent technicians and parts, plus the costs, makes used ZFs an iffy proposition. One might imagine the future of ZF-equipped cars as bleak. My own view is that this is true of most of the new cars, regardless of price.
Tomorrow, at Jim's recommendation, I will speak with RAM about their HiPerf single disk conversion package and the special needs for my project. The tolerances, again, are critical to success, defined as smoothness and longterm reliability, w/o having to redo and redo.
Bill gets $700 for a rebuild, plus parts. With many of the larger parts running in the hundreds of dollars, it is easy to see that a cheap transmission, may not be. He is a reputed perfectionist, with attention to details. Who do you want working on your car and when have you seen the cheap route, stay so? Bill will do the install and I will help get this small group of experts on the same page, and LISTEN to them, so my unique C4 stays on the road for some time.
He agreed with my choice of steel flywheel, BTW, but not knowing the particulars of the existing FW, had no advice as to its use. Aluminum SMFs will also rattle more with a lumpy iding engine. Again, that crucial tolerance for full clutch engagement and full disengagement.
There is so much more; so many stories of hack jobs, but this is too long already.
Last edited:
xfirez51
Well-known member
I finally decided upon and bought a ZF6-40, remanufactured-for-GM black label 6-speed. I have been a staunch defender of the 4+3 and still like aspects of it, but.....
The current plan is McLeod hydraulic release bearing via stock master and pedals and to have ZFdoc blueprint and install it.
Researching the clutch package behind a steel SMF.
I think steel may be a better choice for a street driven car with a very aggressive cam that is difficult to launch smoothly, tho Hib recommended aluminum.
I did the ZF conversion on my 84 some years ago. One of the best mods I did IMO. 4+3 is no comparison. I used a Fidanza FW w a Camaro LT-1 disc. Used stock master cylinder w ZF slave and braided line. Bell housing bolted right up to the CFire. In addition to the trans-plant, motor was modded w heads and cam. The cam was a 53d overlap w 108d LSA. Motor had plenty of torque. No issue using AL FW. In fact I thought it was great. Ran low 13's on street tires and a 3.45 D44.
What do you mean by "radical" cam?
- Thread starter
- #160
WhalePirot
Well-known member
Good info, thanks. The Fidanza, being aluminum, seems appropriate for racing: quicker (less inertia) RPM changes for drag or road racing. Interesting, according to and differing from other posts, is that the 4+3 master works with the ZF slave.
The cam info is in my signature, but radical, to me, is indicated less by the specs and more by the lumpy
idle at 900 rpm or so. I don't and won't drag race the car, but am told by some who know that this car is faster than a stock C4 ZR1 and should run in the 12s.
The cam info is in my signature, but radical, to me, is indicated less by the specs and more by the lumpy
idle at 900 rpm or so. I don't and won't drag race the car, but am told by some who know that this car is faster than a stock C4 ZR1 and should run in the 12s. 
Corvette Forums
Supporting Vendors
Dealers:
