Tall Valve Cover Clearance

[rbryce]

I am in the middle of a body-off restore, and I need some help from those of you that have assembled cars.


Problem: I need to go to higher than stock valve covers to clear my roller rocker arms, and I am looking at Edelbrocks aluminum tall valve covers. I have a 68 with standard brakes and a 350 engine. I want to go to power brakes which requires a different brake line from the master cylinder to the rear wheels than the one without power brakes, due to the depth of the booster between the master cylinder and the firewall, and this line can only be installed while the body is off. Once the body goes back on, the line that is in dictates the brake system I use.

The question is, is there enough clearance for removing the tall valve cover with the power brake booster installed? ;help

I believe there is, but I would really like to be sure.

 

[Vette79]

I believe you will have enough room as well but not positive.

 

[minifridge1138]

I have tall valve covers on my 350 and they have no problem clearing the stock power brake booster.

If you're using an aftermarket power brake system, then I can't help you.

How much trouble was it to make the clam shell hood on your avatar? I wish my car did that.

Good Luck!

 

[rbryce]

How much trouble was it to make the clam shell hood on your avatar? I wish my car did that.

The tilt nose took several months to build, and that was after we figured out how to do it. There are no kits, all original panels, parts of panels and the original hood and fenderwell superstructure. The nose from the hood forward is a custon design we made, and a hand laid mold was used to make the final nose portion. The hood was glassed into the fenders, the fenders were cut above the angle break line behind the front tires, the wiper door was eliminated and replaced with a cowl induction style to hide the wipers (I did this in 1972 and later the next year Corvette did the same thing. I'd like to think they copied me, but probably not true!!). The headlights were relocated behind the grill, the grill was make from bar stock steel, welded together and chromed, and the hinge mechanism used coil over shocks to assist in lifting the heavy hood. It locks in place with the original hood locks. The hood design was made from the 427 hood. The 2 cowles were removed from the front of the hood and relocated to the rear sides of the hood. The front of the hood where they were removed was filled in. The nose is about 9" longer than the original corvette front end and the spoiler is molded fiberglass, not plastic. All of the behind scenes engineering and all of the fiberglass work was done by John Jamison of Jamison's Corvettes in Charleston S.C. The picture in the avatar was taken in 1974. I am doing another frame off restoration now on this same car, but the body and paint will be restored again the same way, again by John Jamison.

Here is another picture from the rear.

Glad you like it, but I hope you do not copy it !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[minifridge1138]

You're definitely ahead of your time. In 1984 GM copied you again and went with a clamshell hood.

I think it is safe to say that I'm too lazy to fabricate that!!

Very impressive.

 

[CarDude]

RBRYCE,

I'm one that prefers factory original and even original paint over a show quality repaint. But your car is one to restore the way you customized it back in 1972. I say that because its right for those times and should be preserved that way. There are many originals and many resto-mods (or whatever the term is for the modernized old Vettes) but few period customs. Please post more photos of your car from "back in the day". I love the shot of it from the rear. The car captures the look of some of the cool things happening from that era like the funny cars coming onto the drag ciruit. Give us more details like engine, driveline, etc.

 

[Vette79]

I agree. Let's see more current pics of your beautiful vette. That is one impressive ride as minifridge said!!!

 

[LVMYVT76]

You will have a problem with the alternator hitting the valve cover, usually a longer belt will correct this. If you have a/c, you might have the same problem there. I think the power booster and brake master will clear.

 

[White75]

You will have a problem with the alternator hitting the valve cover, usually a longer belt will correct this. If you have a/c, you might have the same problem there. I think the power booster and brake master will clear.

+1. I have some taller valve covers and there is little available adustment for the alternator. I think that will be your biggest problem of clearance. The stock PB fit just fine with teh taller covers.

 

[rbryce]

Really appreciate the input, and especially the comments about my vette. It's all apart now and the frame is being powder coated. Body is resting comfortably on my car trailer waiting for the rolling chassis to be built. Will start another thread as it progresses. As far as the clearances, again thanks for the input. I was fairly comfortable regarding the brake booster, but actually forgot all about the front of the engine! I do not have power steering, but I do have A/C and an alternator. Guess I will just have to deal with these as necessary, even if it calls for custom mounts, since going without the alternator or compressor is not an option either way. Cross that bridge when I come to it. At least I can manage that with the engine out. Just didn't want any major surprises after the engine was built, new power brake lines installed, the body was on and then it wouldn't fit. Sure don't want to spring for a power boost ($600.00) if I can avoid it.

 

[Bill75]

You will have a problem with the alternator hitting the valve cover, usually a longer belt will correct this. If you have a/c, you might have the same problem there. I think the power booster and brake master will clear.

Yes, I agree wih this I had the same issues with both of them. I spent some time finally getting the right belts to fit everything, just takes some "fiddling" but no big deal.