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Help! Timing chain or optispark

fairlesstj

Active member
Joined
Feb 28, 2011
Messages
44
Location
sacramento
Corvette
1993 ruby coupe
Well i am getting spark to my plugs although seemed maybe a little weak and slow. the car turns over and seems to start but way out of time kinda bloop bloop bla bla bloop bloop. I pulled my opti but I am wondering if I should pull the timing chain cover before I replace opti.
When problem occured car was running as i was driving then loud popping like backfire misfire then she died. never to start again.:ugh:ugh:ugh
 
Well i am getting spark to my plugs although seemed maybe a little weak and slow. the car turns over and seems to start but way out of time kinda bloop bloop bla bla bloop bloop. I pulled my opti but I am wondering if I should pull the timing chain cover before I replace opti.
When problem occured car was running as i was driving then loud popping like backfire misfire then she died. never to start again.:ugh:ugh:ugh
How many miles are on the car??
Have you pulled the codes??
Have you Checked ALL Fuses and Fusible links??
What kind of Fuel Pressure does it have at key up??
Have you Checked the Resistance on ALL Fuel Injectors??
Have you Cleaned and Inspected ALL Grounds??
Do you have a service manual,or are you fly'n by the wild hears on your Caboose?~??;shrug
 
How many miles are on the car??
Have you pulled the codes??
Have you Checked ALL Fuses and Fusible links??
What kind of Fuel Pressure does it have at key up??
Have you Checked the Resistance on ALL Fuel Injectors??
Have you Cleaned and Inspected ALL Grounds??
Do you have a service manual,or are you fly'n by the wild hears on your Caboose?~??;shrug
154k
31=LCD Data Circuit shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
33=Data Clock Circuit shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
35=Data Strobe circuit shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
37=M Clock Circuit open or shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
Checked all the fuses dont know where the fusible links are i should check
wont start with starting fluid so i figure not a fuel problem
yes on the cleaned and inspected grounds
No on the FSM just a haynes repair manual which is mostly garbage
And yes I am flying by the wild hairs on my ...
I talked with a few people I believe to be knowledgeable and the pointed me towards the opti.
If you check my previous post I explaind in detail what happened at the time and posted the codes and got one response pointing me towards the opti
 
154k
31=LCD Data Circuit shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
33=Data Clock Circuit shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
35=Data Strobe circuit shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
37=M Clock Circuit open or shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
Checked all the fuses dont know where the fusible links are i should check
wont start with starting fluid so i figure not a fuel problem
yes on the cleaned and inspected grounds
No on the FSM just a haynes repair manual which is mostly garbage
And yes I am flying by the wild hairs on my ...
I talked with a few people I believe to be knowledgeable and the pointed me towards the opti.
If you check my previous post I explaind in detail what happened at the time and posted the codes and got one response pointing me towards the opti
Your 93 won't have any F Links,there will be a fuse panel behind the battery on the hinge pillar and if I remember right there will be one on the back side of the left front wheel splash shield in front of the battery!~!(They both will have a black cover on them!)
At the rt end of the dash the will be a access panel with fuses,Check All of them too!~!!

Also,behind the engine the Fat harness from the ECM is bad to chaff and short to ground on a bracket or rear of engine!!

What does the Opti look like inside,have you removed the cap?

:w
 
Your 93 won't have any F Links,there will be a fuse panel behind the battery on the hinge pillar and if I remember right there will be one on the back side of the left front wheel splash shield in front of the battery!~!(They both will have a black cover on them!)
At the rt end of the dash the will be a access panel with fuses,Check All of them too!~!!

Also,behind the engine the Fat harness from the ECM is bad to chaff and short to ground on a bracket or rear of engine!!

What does the Opti look like inside,have you removed the cap?

:w
not yet I will get back to you once I get it apart probably tommorrow
checked all the big fuses in front and behind battery will look at the harness also
 
Check the electrical connection on top of opti to be sure it is not corroded. When mine gets wet I get blop blop bang blop chuggle chuggle then it gives me the cyclo massage shakes then dies

When I put my opti in the car still would not start until we cleaned the pins on the connector on top of the opti.
 
Check the electrical connection on top of opti to be sure it is not corroded. When mine gets wet I get blop blop bang blop chuggle chuggle then it gives me the cyclo massage shakes then dies

When I put my opti in the car still would not start until we cleaned the pins on the connector on top of the opti.
i looked at the connector but i will double check it.
 
Having the same issue

i looked at the connector but i will double check it.
Hello sir. Im new to the site and I have a similar problem with my 95. I was driving on monday and slowed down around a curve. After turning I put my foot on the gas full load and heard a big backfire. I let off for 5-10 seconds and pushed the throttle again half load and yet another big backfire. I lost all throttle and got the blop blop bla bla blop blop and then it died. I cant even get it to idle on its own. I have to pump the gas in order to get the engine to stay running and it still does the blop blop. Any ideas?? I would be a big help!

I thought i might have bent a rod or valve but i pulled the valve covers and they are perfectly fine. Could it be a piston or timing chain issue?
 
Hello sir. Im new to the site and I have a similar problem with my 95. I was driving on monday and slowed down around a curve. After turning I put my foot on the gas full load and heard a big backfire. I let off for 5-10 seconds and pushed the throttle again half load and yet another big backfire. I lost all throttle and got the blop blop bla bla blop blop and then it died. I cant even get it to idle on its own. I have to pump the gas in order to get the engine to stay running and it still does the blop blop. Any ideas?? I would be a big help!

I thought i might have bent a rod or valve but i pulled the valve covers and they are perfectly fine. Could it be a piston or timing chain issue?
I assume you checked the basics fuel and spark and fuses and grounds. dont be afraid to start a post of your own asking for help.
I am fairly new here and cant remember how many times already I have posted for help and got great feedback. Anyway welcome to the site and if you solve your problem please let us know what it turned out to be...
 
I assume you checked the basics fuel and spark and fuses and grounds. dont be afraid to start a post of your own asking for help.
I am fairly new here and cant remember how many times already I have posted for help and got great feedback. Anyway welcome to the site and if you solve your problem please let us know what it turned out to be...
all fuses checked out fine. I figured out the problem... I have a collapsed lifter on the drivers side. :-(. Have to take the intake manifold off and im going to replace all 16 lifter. thank you for the advice. :)
 
154k
31=LCD Data Circuit shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
33=Data Clock Circuit shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
35=Data Strobe circuit shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
37=M Clock Circuit open or shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
:confused:confused:confused

Where did you get these codes and definitions??

Is your car a 93??

:confused:confused:confused
 
all fuses checked out fine. I figured out the problem... I have a collapsed lifter on the drivers side. :-(. Have to take the intake manifold off and im going to replace all 16 lifter. thank you for the advice. :)

I'm a little skeptical...a single lifter can;t kill the engine. A slipped timing chain maybe, but one valve not opening causes a misfire, not a stall. That takes multiple cylinders.
Hope its not too serious.
 
:confused:confused:confused

Where did you get these codes and definitions??

Is your car a 93??

:confused:confused:confused
online copied them from somewhere
yes it is a 93
and still haven't opened opti gotta get the tool for reverse torx
and i been cheating on my vette working on my boat for the last few days.
Good news is got the boat in the water and got her dialed in.
 
just use a torx screw that fits the head of the screws holding the cap on ,I used a cordless drill on mine and worked great.
 
I pulled my opti but I am wondering if I should pull the timing chain cover before I replace opti.

When I went through a similar situation a couple of years ago I ended up with a dead optispark. The codes made little sense in that they didn't specifically point to a dead opti.

As for the timing chain question, my car was at 125K and I pulled my front cover only because I had a very leaky front seal. The timing chain was find, very little slack, I changed it only because I had bought a new one. Now the front hub where the seal rides was another story. It was grooved pretty bad so I replaced it as the new crank seal wouldn't have lasted very long.

There is one item that was new to me. The drive seal for I believe the water pump is teflon coated and easy to tear. It is suppose to be dry installed, not greased like some seals. That is suppose to let the teflon coat the wp drive shaft. It is very easy to tear this seal as it slides up over the splined drive shaft. The tip, found on a website somewhere, is to use a Sharpie marker cover, cut to length as a shield to slide the seal on with over the splines. Worked like greased weasel sh_t.

A link below with photos that may help
http://www.impalaclub.com/naisso/forum2009/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30984

Good luck,

Mike
 
Well i finally found time to replace my opti got one at autozone for 250 with everything car fired right up so that solves my problem. thanks for all the help.
P.S. anyone in the sacramento area working on a vette needs parts or just has questions call parts planet and ask for my friend larry. he has been spot on with his input on all my problems.
They got tons of used vette parts.
 
Optispark blues

Glad you got your problem solved!
I had similar problems- car ran, but poorly. I knew how much trouble the Opti was to replace, so I replaced all the other possible culprits first- Coil, ICM, plugs and wires. No dice. Finally I ordered a Opti from Chandler in Wisconsin. It was as hard a job as everyone had warned me about- Lots of hoses to remove, antifreeze to drain, waterpump, crank pulley, etc. Finally when I turned the key after a lot of R&R, it fired right up! I've only owned my 93 vert for a year, but it must have been going downhill the whole time. It's never run as good as it runs now! :happyanim:

The old Opti distributor cap had lots of carbon tracks and deterioiration. If it had only been on top of the engine, I'd have replaced it right after I got the car. Vive la difference! Sounds like we got our problems solved the same time. My opti was finished last Saturday, the 6th of August. It was laid up for 2 weeks+. Now I've driven it every day since then! Thank you, Chandler Motorsports!

Thank you for saving my Wave!
 
Actually got her out for a drive yesterday. My opti must have been working poorly since i bought her cause a noticable difference in how she runs. What a difference.
 

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