To Junk about creaking.

[Hib Halverson]

Hib, then what is your opinion on drilling and tapping for a zerk fitting to lube the poly's?

Sometimes modifying the bushings with a grease fitting helps but sometimes not.

Will it weaken the A frame?

I'm sorry, but I don't know.

Sometimes urethane bushings which are graphite-impregnated can solve a noise problem. Is that the type of bushings which were installed in this car? If not, I think I'd redo the installation with graphite-impregnated poly bushings before I'd do the zerk installation.

 

[G Winter]

On the subject of the torque beam. The service manual mentions a sealer to be used on the contact surfaces. I would check with the mechanic to see if he used anything. I used the black silicone on mine and I haven't heard any noise yet. There is also a torque specification for the bolts. 100 lbs rings a bell without looking.

Glenn

 

[Paul Higg]

Glenn, if you're talking about the main beam that Hib was describing above, I looked it up last night in the FSM, it is torqued to 165 pounds!!! I don't know about you but my torque wrench only goes up to 100 pounds. As for getting TO it, man that looks like a LOT of work.

As for the cross members, I still have to remove them and put some sealer under them and retighten them back up but the FSM does not mention a torque value so I guess "good 'n' tight will do.

Paul

 

[G Winter]

I just looked it up for my 90.

Driveline Support bolts at Carrier 59 lbs.ft

Driveline Support Bolts at Transmission 37 lbs.ft

in the underbody /frame section

Front crossmember to rear brace to front side of member bolt 43 lbs. ft
Front crossmember to drivetrain and front suspension frame bolt 41 lbs. ft
drivetrain and front suspension frame to front side member nut 37 lbs. ft
Under body brace to frame bolts 47 lbs.ft.

not sure this is what your looking to tighten .

Glenn

 

[Paul Higg]

My bust Glenn. I was looking at the wheel hubs. I think it was 167 pounds.

I stand corrected.

Thanks.

Paul

 

[G Winter]

Pretty easy to get screwed around reading that FSM. I don't know where I got 100 ft lbs for that beam either. I do know the wheels are 100 ft lbs.

I bought a 1/2 ratchet torque wrench at Menard's on sale for $14.00 , lifetime replacement. I know it goes to at least 150 lbs.They have a line of tools called Tool Shop. I checked it against another torque wrench and it seems to be accurate. With lifetime free replacement how could I go wrong?

Glenn

 

[Paul Higg]

What I need are TWO of them Glenn. One that goes up to 200 foot pounds and a 1/4" drive that goes from say 1 inch pound to, I dunno, whatever they go up to! We used to use 'em on aircraft. MAN are they handy. But I have been scouring the net for a new one and they want a LOT, like $300!

Paul

 

[Toms007]

I have 3 torque wrenches, a 1/2" that goes to 150 ft lbs, another one that goes to 250, and a 3/8" that is in in lbs. I bought one from Harbor Freight, one from Sears, and the big one from an on-line supplier. Paid about $70 for the most expensive one. They work fine for the amount that I use them. I check them against the ones we have at school a couple times a year.

 

[John Robinson]

Torque Wrenches

Paul check this out

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Merry Christmas

 

[gmjunkie]

Sometimes modifying the bushings with a grease fitting helps but sometimes not.


I think we have our answer from Hib. I guess the question now is do you have to remove the new bushings in order to drill and tap. I think if the drilling was done carefully and a flat bottom tap used it could be done with the parts on the car. It would seem to me that if the poly can expand and contract up to .005 with cold weather there would be room to lubricate the bushing with a molybdenum grease.

Don't waist your time, there to tight for grease to even be injected in there!! Here is what I'd do,if I thought it was the control arm bushings creaking!! If the bushing's were recently replaced,chances are the suspension was relaxed when all the nuts and bolts were tightened!! I'd put it on a Alignment Rack with wheels on turn tables and loosen the 2 nuts on each upper control arm cross bar ends,I'd loosen the 2 lower control arm mounting bolts at cross member on each side, and loosen the 2 bolts on each stabilizer end link!! Then I'd move to the rear and loosen all 4 bolts in the wish bones and the outer bolts in the spindle rod on both sides,and both bolts in the stabilizer end links on both sides!! Bounce the front and rear of the car several times this should allow the inside collars in the bushings move to a Neutral position at ride hight!! Tighten it all back up,Check the alignment and see how it does!! This should help eliminate most of the creaking if not all!!

PS.See Green Highlighted areas in diagrams,they're 93 but all is mostly the same except rear brakes!!

I have a New 08 here with a Grocery List of things the New Owner (AKA:Vett Boy)wants done before he takes delivery and the parts and trinkets have been rolling in, Later!!

 

[Paul Higg]

THANKS Junk!!!

Paul