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weird electrical thing going on

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osuvette

Guest
I went out to my car this morning and the battery was dead, no keyless entry, no lights, dead. There was some acid in the pan, but I couldn't find it on the relay wires below it. I changed out the battery and I got power to everything but it still wouldn't crank. After I would try and crank it all the power would shut off again. I'd try it again and the same thing would happen for about an hour. I finally got it to fire up and drove it, but when I turned off the engine everything went dead again. Any ideas what's going on? Do you think one of the wires got acid on it anyways?
;help
Thanks
 
osuvette said:
I went out to my car this morning and the battery was dead, no keyless entry, no lights, dead. There was some acid in the pan, but I couldn't find it on the relay wires below it. I changed out the battery and I got power to everything but it still wouldn't crank. After I would try and crank it all the power would shut off again. I'd try it again and the same thing would happen for about an hour. I finally got it to fire up and drove it, but when I turned off the engine everything went dead again. Any ideas what's going on? Do you think one of the wires got acid on it anyways?
;help
Thanks
I think your Battery Cables are corroded at the connections!! Some times they can Look Clean but are not!!! Clean them up good with Baking Soda and a wire Brush!!:upthumbs PS check ECM and Electronics (Under Toe board,Pass side floorboard) for evidence of damage from Battery Leakage!!
 
I cleaned everything off and the power is staying on much better. The car's been taking longer to start though. Before it would start after 1 crank, now it takes a lot more. Any ideas? I checked the ECM and i can't see any corrosion on the wires. The driver side ac doesn't turn on now. I'm going to pull the fuses and see if it helps. The FOB transmitter isn't picking up my FOB anymore either. I tried to reset it, when it tells you to hold lk and unlk for 15s it won't pick it up. ;shrug On top of it, the last clown at the chevy dealer to work on the car decided it would be a good idea to strip the hell out of my cable screws:mad ; taking the battery in and out has been a pain in the ass. :hb
Thanks for any help
 
If you installed a new battery, that could be the red wire on the starter selenoid or the ground wire on the engine. Any codes?



In case you want to check the other end of the cables:


This is the proceedure to remove both cables, but just take the steps you need.

Positive battery cable

1- Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

2- Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery.

3- Disconnect the positive battery cable from the underhood relay fuse.

4- Remove the battery hold down and bolt.

5- Remove the battery from vehicle.

6- Remove the battery heat shield push-in retainers.

7- Remove the battery heat shield.

8- Remove the upper clip from the battery cable.

9- Raise the vehicle and support.

10- Remove the right O2 sensor.

11- Remove the lower clip from the battery cable.

12- Disconnect the positive battery cable and nut from the starter.

13- Lower the vehicle.

14- Remove the positive battery cable.



The first 7 steps can be done in 10 minutes + an other 10 to jack the car. Difficulty can be with the O2 sensor removal, but you might be able to do it with sensor in place. The rest is strait forward.



Negative battery cable.

1- Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

2- Remove the battery heat shield push-in retainers.

3- Remove the battery heat shield.

4- Remove the upper clip from the battery cable.

5- Disconnect the negative battery cable ground lead from the RH frame rail.

6- Raise the vehicle and support.

7- Remove the lower clip from the battery cables.

8- Disconnect the negative battery cable from engine block.

9- Lower the car.

Remove the negative battery cable from the vehicle.
 
I managed to fix the ac and the FOBs, but the car is still taking longer to start up.
I pulled some codes:
B0432H Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
U1096H Loss of Communications with IPC
C2105 H Right Front TPM Sensor Malfunction
I cleared the codes before I took it out, I don't know why I'm getting histories. It doesn't look like there's anything to do with the ignition though.:(
vette747, I'll give give your idea a try tomorrow when I can get the car up on stands.
Thanks for all the help
 
These codes are not related to hard to start. It should not crank for more than 3 seconds before it starts. I would start by checking fuel pressure. You should have 55-61 psi as soon you put the key to on. That could be a fuel pump going bad, therefore taking some more time to build up pressure. You could also check the fuel filter.
 
update

Well...I got to the fuel filter and this thing was dirty. Cleaned it off and now everything is running well.

Thanks for all the help:upthumbs
 

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