Question: Will the Edelbrock Pro Fo XT fit under an 84 Hood?

[AussieCorvetteNut]

Front suspension and steering almost complete

Hi Fellas,

I have put together most of the front suspension and steering, just have to finalise the steering rack install and tie rods ends, and I can move onto the brakes.

I had to shave half the inside radius off the stock rack bushing as I wasn't too sure what part was used in the conversion process, so the stock replacement was a gamble.
The photos show the bushing installed but not the bracket.

I am hoping to finish this bit by the weekend, so I can make up my mind if I am going to run some 2000 grit over my firewall clear coat or not.

The modified tail section for the Tremec TKO 600 arrived about a week ago.
I managed to talk Hurst Drivelines into just supplying a conversion kit, modified tail section and Sidewinder II offset shifter. Just have to get the universal joints, modify the torque arm and cut the trans tunnel.

A real big thank you to Nick at Hurst Driveline Conversions!



Tony

 

[AussieCorvetteNut]

Heater Core Nightmare

Well usually replacing the heater core in a C4 Vette is pretty involved, then add to that the fact that the Vette has had a right hand drive conversion and things get a little more interesting.

I have been carefully disassembling the heater core housing from the firewall and it still doesn't want to give. This is day two, but I have only spent a couple of hours each day or enough time to start swearing and its's time to give it a miss for the day, save breaking something

Now the housing has been modified slightly and is installed upside down, so I am wondering if there are more screws in there.
Tried the parts manual, FSM and Google pics, nothing or not enough pics.

I have removed the brace, the dash pad, glovebox as they are all on the left side now.
I have removed all of the screws that hold the two pieces of the housing together as I figured that the engineering shop may have installed it in two pieces, they may have mounted the rear of it to the firewall first, then installed the heater core, then the other part of the housing.
You would think that it would be installed as a complete unit though.

I could wait and see if they will help me and call them on Monday 4th January, but the last time I rang they weren't too interested in helping which annoyed me a little, seams that they don't like answering questions on a vehicle they engineered 20 years ago.
I bet that if I was asking questions and placing a deposit on a right hand drive C7 Vette they would have time for me...ad

Feels like there is another screw up behind the aluminium brace and it is getting stuck on the electrical body firewall connector...I don't really want to mess around with this connector.

Any thoughts even though Blue is right hand drive?

 

[AussieCorvetteNut]

Some pics

Some pics of the firewall and heater box...

yeah I did wet sand the clear on the firewall and hit it with Juice Cutting Compound. Instant fix

 

[AussieCorvetteNut]

Maybe the IP Brace

Some pics of the firewall and heater box...

yeah I did wet sand the clear on the firewall and hit it with Juice Cutting Compound. Instant fix

It looks like it is also hitting on the Instrument Panel Brace, the aluminium brace pictured.

Yes, I did frown a bit and say a few choice words when I saw the wiring harness and the soldering work over the last 30 years.

Hey looking back at the old pictures, it is hard to believe that this is the same car...black chassis rails and firewall before, now colour!

 

[AussieCorvetteNut]

Is the aluminium IP Brace structural?

It looks like it is also hitting on the Instrument Panel Brace, the aluminium brace pictured.

Yes, I did frown a bit and say a few choice words when I saw the wiring harness and the soldering work over the last 30 years.

Hey looking back at the old pictures, it is hard to believe that this is the same car...black chassis rails and firewall before, now colour!

Just wondering if I proceed with undoing the IP aluminium cross brace, if it is structural.

I am sure it would be OK looking at the frame design.

Any thoughts?

 

[AussieCorvetteNut]

Just wondering if I proceed with undoing the IP aluminium cross brace, if it is structural.

I am sure it would be OK looking at the frame design.

Any thoughts?

Well I got a hand with the last part of the removal of the heater core, all out, a few more swear words in the shed, buut managed to survive without breaking anything.

The second photo shows the aluminium replacement core installed.

The Harrison core actually looks ok, but my engine cooling system would have been pumping crap through this core...3rd photo

Last photo is of the modified housing.

Some pics...getting closer to engine and Trans...hydraulic throw out set up next.

 

[AussieCorvetteNut]

Back on all four wheels

Back on all four wheels, even if at the moment the wheels and tyres are incorrectly mounted...will fix that when I get the wheel alignment done.

Did a brake bleed yesterday and had problems with one of the bleeders on the rear calipers.

Swapped this to an older bleeder from the original calipers and it bled fine.
I am just watching for leaks now, I have noticed the rear calipers have a small amount of fluid on the bottom slide bolt. I will keep an eye on it, the fronts are fine.

Just have to clamp the brake lines to the chassis rails and its finished...providing the rear calipers aren't about to give me trouble.

All the calipers are rebuilt A1 Cardone...just hoping that the main seals are ok.

 

[KANE]

Looking really good!!!

Yeah- I remember pulling the heater core out on my old C3. UGH! Oh my gosh... what a PITA. I can only imagine how much more... err- "fun"... it is on a RHD car is. :ugh

You car is awesome.

 

[AussieCorvetteNut]

I think the calliper seals are no good.

Did a brake bleed yesterday and had problems with one of the bleeders on the rear callipers.

Swapped this to an older bleeder from the original callipers and it bled fine.
I am just watching for leaks now, I have noticed the rear callipers have a small amount of fluid on the bottom slide bolt. I will keep an eye on it, the fronts are fine.

Just have to clamp the brake lines to the chassis rails and its finished...providing the rear callipers aren't about to give me trouble.

All the callipers are rebuilt A1 Cardone...just hoping that the main seals are ok.

Well, it has been a few days since I did the brake bleed and although I still have a firm pedal, the callipers are showing a small leak.

I have been checking and wiping the bottom slide bolt every day since the bleed.
While there isn't a lot of fluid, when you wipe your finger, it has a thimble sized fluid leak.
Three out of the four callipers have a leak, although the one that is dry had leaked initially.

All my brake lines are new AC Delco units, they are as dry as a bone.

I suspect that the leak is the piston seals.

Trouble is I have a great pedal...

I am going to take the callipers off on the weekend and check the seals for signs of fluid.

Just frustrating after all of the effort and money spent, only to find a leak ad

I have emailed Cardone to see if they can suggest anything or to see if I have missed something.

Trouble is I purchased the callipers a year ago when the exchange rates were better, so I have had the units sitting on the parts shelf waiting for me to put them on.

I think that the seals are dry...one of old blokes I have a yarn too said that they used to fill the new callipers with fluid days before install, to get the seal soaked.

Any thoughts?

 

[AussieCorvetteNut]

I have lodged a warranty claim

Hi Guys,

An update on the callipers:

I have been checking these everyday since install and since bleeding the system.
Everything is dry except the bottom slide bolt head, so I expect that the lip seals or piston seals may not be sealing correctly.

I touched base with RockAuto and Cardone and they have requested that I lodge a warranty claim.
I did this this morning, so will see what they would like to do.

The Cardone Tech responded saying that they should not be leaking at all.

I expect that as they were probably rebuilt some time ago and have been waiting for me to install for around 12 months, that the seals may have dried.

I have noticed that the front callipers are slowing down with the amount of fluid leak, one has stopped and the other stopped this morning when I checked it.

Will see how I go with RockAuto & Cardone.

 

[AussieCorvetteNut]

Calliper leak solved.

Hi Guys,

An update on the callipers:

I have been checking these everyday since install and since bleeding the system.
Everything is dry except the bottom slide bolt head, so I expect that the lip seals or piston seals may not be sealing correctly.

I touched base with RockAuto and Cardone and they have requested that I lodge a warranty claim.
I did this this morning, so will see what they would like to do.

The Cardone Tech responded saying that they should not be leaking at all.

I expect that as they were probably rebuilt some time ago and have been waiting for me to install for around 12 months, that the seals may have dried.

I have noticed that the front callipers are slowing down with the amount of fluid leak, one has stopped and the other stopped this morning when I checked it.

Will see how I go with RockAuto & Cardone.

Well the guys at Cardone and RockAuto were great and proceeded to assist with a warranty claim.

Within 48 hours of lodging the claim, the callipers stopped showing signs of leaking.
The bolt head has been dry for nearly a week.

Pedal pressure is great and the master cylinder levels are fine....they were even with the leak.

My thoughts are that the seals were dry from being stored...probably should have dropped a little brake fluid in the callipers a few days out from the install, so they had time to soak that up.


Anyway now I can get on with checking the torque settings on the installed driveline components and then get on with installing the heater core box and cutting the transmission tunnel to get ready for the Tremec TKO 600.

My 1310/1330 Universals are on the way, so I can install the 31 spline yoke and check the balance on the shaft.

Basically all I have left to do for the Tremec install is to buy the transmission and swap out the tail section for the offset tail section from Hurst Driveline Conversions.
I am about to order the Hydraulic Throw Out set up and fit it with the new clutch master that is waiting to go in.

The clutch and pressure plates and flywheel are next, then I can get onto the engine rebuild.

I have a machine shop lined up for this work, so once all the checking and testing are complete and I know the status of the block and crank, I can order my RHS Heads, and fit the Edelbrock Pro Flo XT.
No use ordering the heads until I know if the block and crank are good.

I expect that both are fine, but if either are no good, then a stroker crank is on the shopping list, so I will need to change my head selection.



Tony

 

[89 Vette]

That's awesome news!!

 

[AussieCorvetteNut]

Sorting through the wiring harness...

Haven't posted an update for a while, thought I would post an update.

Heater Core:
Finally got the heater core re-installed after more swearing...trimmed a few bits and removed some of the insulation under the dash, but then installed some foil insulation in its place. Still a tight fit, but it is in.
I am pre-fitting the a/c evaporater housing with foam rubber seal and have ordered a new a/c evaporator even tough mine was working. Also ordered a new blower motor and wiper motor...all form RockAuto.com.

FAST EZ EFI 2.0 Multiport 30404:
Finally ordered my FAST EZ EFI 2.0 Multiport kit (30404) from Jegs and it is currently in transit passing through Hawaii.
Part of this upgrade is also a FAST E6 Ignition system and FAST 305005 distributor, they are on the way across the Pacific as well.
I was going to continue on and buy my RAM clutch and flywheel assembly, but as I am cleaning the wiring harness and deleting what is not needed, I really needed to bite the bullet and get the FAST products as their harnesses will play a big part in the custom wiring harness.
Also have to work out what injectors to run to suit both the Edelbrock PRO FLO XT fuel rails and FAST wiring harness and work out the fuel line fabrication from the factory lines and filter that come from the tank, to the fuel rails and of course the regulator...the FAST EFI has a monitoring regulator system as part of the engine management...will check this out.

TREMEC TKO Transmission and RAM Clutch:
My RAM hydraulic throw out bearing arrived and I am waiting for some universals that are on back order with Summit...also added in a RAM hydraulic adjuster that allows customisation of the clutch peddle operation...thanks to a quick email to RAM who confirmed that it wasn't needed, but would allow adjustment of the peddle travel.
All this is in preparation for the TREMEC TKO 600 with the Hurst Drivelines modified tail section.
As I previously posted, Hurst supplied a modified tail section and install kit only, without the transmission, so I could get started on fabrication and so that I could buy the transmission here in Australia and maintain a product warranty.

Now I am also preping the inner guards and radiator housing for 2-pack satin black and cleaning the wiring harness...which leads me to a question.
I have attached a photo of the firewall harness, the round harness is the one with the transmission ball switch wiring and the Crossfire injection harness and the transmission overdrive relay harness...all of this can be deleted, but I am not rough enough to just cut the wiring harness...

My question is: After I get the ECM out, how should I remove the wires that aren't needed?

Are they easy to remove from the ECM connectors?

 

[AussieCorvetteNut]

Look what arrived today

The FAST EZ EFI 2.0 Multiport kit arrived today...thanks Jegs.

This will work well with the Edelbrock PRO FLO XT Intake...

 

[89 Vette]

That should be quite the package when it's all together!! Keep up the great work.

 

[KANE]

Best bet is to careful clip the wires from the OE connector.

Our Vettes had card reader terminals.

You need the pin terminals or whatever the FAST harness requires. If you want a really clean installation, repin your harness to the FAST ECM connector. That may require you to use the FAST harness connector and some replacement pins that you crimp on to your harness.

Look up GM terminal pins on EBay. Lots if folks sell them- just make sure you use the Delphi crimper to get them to fit inside the plastic connector.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tom Bryant]

I'm really enjoying the progress reports on this build.

Tom

 

[AussieCorvetteNut]

Best bet is to careful clip the wires from the OE connector.

Our Vettes had card reader terminals.

You need the pin terminals or whatever the FAST harness requires. If you want a really clean installation, repin your harness to the FAST ECM connector. That may require you to use the FAST harness connector and some replacement pins that you crimp on to your harness.

Look up GM terminal pins on EBay. Lots if folks sell them- just make sure you use the Delphi crimper to get them to fit inside the plastic connector.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Kane.

I managed to sort through the harness and I know which ones need to be deleted, mostly the ball switches from the DNE 4+3, the two injector wires, MAF, IAC...actually come to think of it, there wouldn't be too many wires left that would be connected to the ECM.

From what I have read, the digital dash is stand alone from the ECM, so at this stage, I might just disconnect what I don't need.
The FAST ECM controls mostly everything, fans, fuel delivery, spark and timing through the FAST Dual Sync Dizzy.

There are a total of six connections on the factory ECM to engine bay harness, two are for the ECM and the other four head off towards the fuse box.

I have unplugged all but the two on the ECM.

It took me around 2 hours this morning, as I removed the centre console, gear stick and selector and loosened the heater control unit, the stereo (the original Bose unit) and the Driver Info Panel.

I found it easier to get in behind the console by pulling these units forward.

I also found that the main harness really needs to be lifted up a bit as the weight of the harness pulls other wires down.

I will zip tie the harness to the aluminium rail behind the dash when I reinstall.

I emailed DeWitts Radiators and Summit this morning to try and organise a DeWitts Aluminium Radiator and their SPAL Fan Kit.
As the FAST ECM controls fans (optional), I really need to organise the supplied harness for the fans and figure out where I need to route it.

I also really need to set aside some time and hone my soldering skills as I am a bit rusty. I am getting annoyed with the bad soldering and insulation tape connections from the others past.

The FAST harness comes with its own firewall grommet, but I think I may be able to use the factory one with the clamp...it might be a pain in the butt and be slow, but it will fit better.


Cheers

Tony

 

[AussieCorvetteNut]

I'm really enjoying the progress reports on this build.

Tom

Thanks Tom, much appreciated.

It may frustrate me sometimes, but I am enjoying this build too.
My last Vette I only did a bit of work on, the main bits where done by someone else as I was time poor back then too.

This one is different and I am a lot more fussier now, still time poor, but the Wife understands and can see that there is progress.
She even went to a car show with me last weekend and hinted that the next car should be a 56 or a 57 Chev...:L

All the suspension brakes and steering have been replaced or rebuilt on this one, the rear driveline has been rebuilt, replaced the fuel tank and cleaned it out, added in an 85 to 87 fuel sender and pump ready for TPI at the time...I have a TPI unit, but that is on eBay.
I would never sell this Vette...'Blue' is a keeper.

It is very rewarding when you turn around and you can see the progress, and you can see the difference when you go from under the car to under the dash and inside the cabin.
I even walk past the front and rear bumpers and the door sills and think, I need to sand those, and prep them for new paint.
I have been teaching myself how to paint 2-pac and learning more about the new cutting compounds, especially if the gun pressure wasn't right and orange peal occurs.

My list is getting shorter, but I seem to be adding other jobs to it, as to do it right, they need to be done.

I pulled the centre console out today as the transmission tunnel needs to be modified for the Tremec Transmission, I am thinking of foil insulation now...another job added to the list but I think it will come out alright.

Thanks for the feedback, if you know anything about serpentine systems, I am looking at changing the serpentine system from the 84 set up as I need to allow for a 45 degree bend and cone filter coming out from the 90mm throttle body.

I know GM Performance Parts has one, I have emailed them to see if it fits a Vette, it fits Gen 1 blocks, but just need to know if it clears the K Member.

Also need some advice on injectors...chime in if you can offer some advice...much appreciated.

Thanks Tom.

Cheers

Tony

 

[KANE]

Glad that it's going well for you! Wiring can be a massive PITA sometimes.

I found that re-pinning was the way to go. For a port set up, one would just have to add the leads for the additional injectors and then to wye the existing leads so that you go from two to four. On speed density, the only sensor to add is the IAT. On my system, I also have a wide band O2 sensor in addition to my narrow band- and that is pinned into the ECM as well.

That said... Re-pinning works best if you have a good harness to start with and/or you don't have another harness. Oh- and you need absolutely perfect schematics to make sure that as you move things around they are ending up where they are supposed to be.

I would love to see some of the wiring pictures if you have them. Routing wires can be almost as much of an art as it is a science!