Bose Gold Series w/ a extra Amp & Sub

[69MyWay]

I would like to hook up an MTX Thunder 200 Peak power amp to my 10" MTX sub and box enclosure and run it off the 1990 Bose stereo.

Is there any reason why I can/can not hook the rear speaker high/low output to the amp high input and get decent sound, or will it buzz, whine, snap crackle pop?

This amp and sub currently sit in the Geo Metro (don't laugh, it is paid for, gets 48 MPG and has limo dark windows) and actually sounds awesome on a sony head unit using the RCA pre-amp lines. Not competition sound by any means, but plenty of extra thickness to the sound at any volume level.

Thanks for your suggestions.

 

[Steel Half-Shafts]

69MyWay,
Not sure if this will help, but here's a link from a CAC Portal Site that might give you some info. ;help

Bose FAQ

 

[69MyWay]

Wow, shame on me. I should have already known about that link. Thanks, it points me in the right direction. I don't care about the "balance", as I simply love that extra umph the sub gives to almost any sound or situation. Plus, the base portion of the bose in there now only seems to rattle things. So, I can hook it to the speaker as noted in that link on the hi/low, side, and it sould work fine. I will keep the head unit bass low, and have the amp cranked to get my own sense of balance.

 

[montanabob]

amp noise

The single biggest cause of amplifier noise is cars is due to ground loops. A ground loop is the DC bias present at the power ground terminal of the amplifier. This bias is caused by differing impedances of ground cables of the separate audio components in a car. The solution to this is to ground the amplifier to the nearest chassis ground with a low impedance(ie small wire gage #, large diameter) wire.
You will also want to make sure that the bose output can be grounded, as some high level input amplifiers ground one side of the input. A way to get more power for less $$$ out of OEM systems is to run what is sometimes called a BTL output, which gives you twice the voltage swing available from the battery, but neither end of the output can be grounded without permanent damage to the head unit.
The low level input setup that you have in the GEO, is typically better for noise problems that the high level input, because the output and input grounds are tied together via the rca cable. This is a case where a really good(low impoedance) interconnect is actually worth the money.
You may also want to call up MTX as I know that they have done some vette installs there(their owner drives a C5)and they may be able to connect you with someone in customer service who can give you the exact information you need.
Good luck.