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C1 installing windshield glass into frame

IH2LOSE

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Well I am a little nervous about the winsheild rebuild this week end,I keep stairing at it and it just does not look so complacated (thats the part that is making nervous)

So I am going to have dish detergant as a lubrecant.
a bunch of dull edged putty knifes
All of my hardware ready to be installed.
some duct tape,
Some racheting binding straps.
Some twine.
a small rubber mallet,
Some surgical glove (hopefully to keep my hands from slipping)
My aim

Now when I removed my windsheild glass from the frame there was some dum dum in the corners,was this factory? why was it needed,where do I reinstall it

Any advice is appreceated,I am also going to request help from the NCRS web site some of those guys just never post over here,

A sincere thank you to the kind folks who did PM me with information
 
F

fatboy34

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Sorry I cant help with the windsheild questions, I just wanted to compliment you on your signature tag, I have seen it a hundred times and just noticed your 66 in the reflection , very nice and subtle, well done
Nick
 

IH2LOSE

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fatboy34 said:
Sorry I cant help with the windsheild questions, I just wanted to compliment you on your signature tag, I have seen it a hundred times and just noticed your 66 in the reflection , very nice and subtle, well done
Nick

Thanks Nick Now I has to design another one with the 62 in it
 

John Mcgraw

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Larry,

First thing is the find the exact center of the gasket, top and bottom, and align it with the exact center of the windshield. After the gasket is fully installed, then install the lower channel at the exact center. Then slide the windshied posts on most of the way and install the two small countersunk screws through the tabs into the little nut plates. Just start them and do not tighten them down, because you are going to need to spread the top of the posts enough to install the header. The you are going to install the header moulding and drive the posts into tit until you can put the two countersunk chrome screws in on both sides. Then it is just a matter of beating it together tightly with a dead blow hammer or large rubber mallet and tighten the screws. The only place that I use dum-dum on a new installation, is to hold the little nutplates in place while I am assembling the frame. You can reach through the holes with a awl or ice pick and align the plates to get the screws started, and the dum-dum will keep the from sliding away. It is not really that hard a job, but two people makes it a lot eaiser! The second person is just to keep the gasket from popping off and the like. Doing one by yourself is a real pain! Don't be afraid to really beat on the frame with a dead blow hammer to seat the channels, about the only way you will crack one of these windshields is by twisting the glass or prying on the edge with something hard. Leave the putt knives off the workbench, and do not even think about sticking anything metal between the glass and frame and prying.
If you need to remove the channels from the glass for any reason, use a wood block and a hammer to drive the channel back off . I use no sealant of any type, I found that this makes more mess than you can imagine! The only other place you want to seal is between the frame and the body by putting a wad of dum-dum around each mounting screw as you install the nuts and washers, to seal up the holes where the mounting studs pass through the body.
Your first one is a real pain, but the learning curve is real short!

Regards, John McGraw
 

IH2LOSE

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Thanks John you make it sound so simple.

PS I have been reading quite a bit on those new LS7's makes me want to build a car to put one of them in.I now realize why you started the 65

Thanks Again.I post my results on sunday night
 

John Mcgraw

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Larry,

It is not really that hard of a job, and after you do it once, you will wonder what all the fuss is about it being so difficult. The main key is to center everything properly so you do not have to keep taking it apart! After the channels are installed, you can't move them over a little, if you have it 1/4" off, you have to pull it back apart.

Regards, John
 

kabong

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Windshield replacement

If you have an old windshield glass, try putting it together first, get the "engineering" out first. Just don't use any dumb dumb or sealer. One other thing, if you have sun shades and are useing a repo mounting kit, beware some of the screws may be too long and crack you're new windshield! Johns right, it's not that bad of job, once you get into it
 

IH2LOSE

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kabong said:
If you have an old windshield glass, try putting it together first, get the "engineering" out first. Just don't use any dumb dumb or sealer. One other thing, if you have sun shades and are useing a repo mounting kit, beware some of the screws may be too long and crack you're new windshield! Johns right, it's not that bad of job, once you get into it

KABONG
Welcome to the Corvette Action Center its seems we are getting alot of C1'S to the board these days

Thanks for the info. I am real excited about getting started on it
 

Tom Bryant

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You are making it sound too easy John. This has always been one of those feared things to do to your C1. It's something I have avoided all these years but I think I'll just jump in and replace that cracked seal on mine without fear. I really needed an excuse to replace that dash pad anyway. I also need to get the tach recalibrated. The repair shop I used in 1971 got it about 500 fast. Man, where does this end?

Tom
 
S

studiog

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You guys are making me think about pulling my windshield apart right away. I have been dreading it for months but now I think I am ready to tackle it. By the way... what the hell is dum dum and where do you find it, at the candy store?
 

IH2LOSE

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studiog said:
You guys are making me think about pulling my windshield apart right away. I have been dreading it for months but now I think I am ready to tackle it. By the way... what the hell is dum dum and where do you find it, at the candy store?

Dum dum is thumb putty,thum gum,strip caulk,just a type of sealer

As for doing your winshield Dont hesitate.I am done with mine (well almost) I am missing 2 plates I think to finish it off.
and still have to find out what holds the bottom trim in place.As always the parts I got from paragon where perfect.

And when John said you whack it with a dead blow hammer he was not kidding.I have some photos and I will upload them.Some fellow NCRS members from the NCRS site had given some great advice also .One fellow has a web page up with a great description of how he did his and it was very help full.

Gary the only help I needed was to help me hold the rubber in place,
 

firstgear

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please post the other web links that have info.....that would be helpful....also your pictures would be great as well.........
 

IH2LOSE

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A quick comentary on Johns post for the next guy doing this (I will forget by morning)the red are my notes


First thing is the find the exact center of the gasket, top and bottom, and align it with the exact center of the windshield.Get a long cloth tape like a tailer or tinknocker would use.I used a eraseable felt tipped pen and mark my center mark from top to bottom After the gasket is fully installed With the flap facing the inside to cover over the dash pad , then install the lower channel at the exact center. Then slide the windshied posts on most of the way and install the two small countersunk screws through the tabs into the little nut plates. Just start them and do not tighten them down, because you are going to need to spread the top of the posts enough to install the header. The you are going to install the header moulding and drive the posts into it until you can put the two countersunk chrome screws in on both sides. Then it is just a matter of beating it together tightly with a dead blow hammer or large rubber mallet and tighten the screws. The only place that I use dum-dum on a new installation, is to hold the little nutplates in place while I am assembling the frame.Dont waste your time as I did thinking they would stay in place by magic,Pack them im place with warmed dum dum rolled out in strips they need to be held by dum dum or they will slide all the way our once you comence whacking on the post,Then you can reach through the holes with a awl or ice pick and align the plates to get the screws started, and the dum-dum will keep the from sliding away. It is not really that hard a job, but two people makes it a lot eaiser! The second person is just to keep the gasket from popping off and the like. Doing one by yourself is a real pain! Don't be afraid to really beat on the frame with a dead blow hammer (I was afraid to whack it but I re -read your post again to make sure I did not mis understand you,and because you have given me such great advice in the past I wacked it even harder then I needed to.I figured if I am going to crack it lets crack it right away,after whacking it I had no fear of cracking the glass) to seat the channels, about the only way you will crack one of these windshields is by twisting the glass or prying on the edge with something hard. Leave the putt knives off the workbench, I did not bring the putty knife to the table,But I did bring my pick set,(everybody should own a high quaility pick set) One you get a set youll be lost with out them,I used my lubricated hook backward (sharp side facing out) to just run around the rubber to set the rubber against its mating surface. and do not even think about sticking anything metal between the glass and frame and prying.
If you need to remove the channels from the glass for any reason, use a wood block and a hammer to drive the channel back off . I use no sealant of any type, I found that this makes more mess than you can imagine! The only other place you want to seal is between the frame and the body by putting a wad of dum-dum around each mounting screw as you install the nuts and washers, to seal up the holes where the mounting studs pass through the body.
Your first one is a real pain, but the learning curve is real short!

Now if this does not make perfect sence to you now,just print it and once you get started it all make sence
John Again a sincere Thank You,Not to sound all blubery,But the education you have given me in the last 6 month or so that I have been working on this project will last me a life time,And as you know I am definatley teaching my son all of my skills. Your not just helping me through a car build you giving me an education I get to keep for life.

Thanks
 

Mac

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studiog said:
By the way... what the hell is dum dum and where do you find it, at the candy store?
Although this has been answered a couple of times (and a couple of ways) I'll throw my two cents in with a more technical name which might help when you're looking.

Dumdum is a common name used for butyl tape, a sealant used in a variety of applications. You can get it at most automotive supply stores, especially those who have autobody supplies. I like PPG butyl tape but there's a variety of different kinds available as well as a variety of different colours.

-Mac
 

IH2LOSE

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So do I have a major problem or what,


So I had sent the re chromer this


And i got back this



The tab is gone,I did not even know it was removeable.I spent hour packaging these so the tabs could not be damaged,I did not even realize they were gone untill I flipped the winsheild over to install the screws in it

I will contact the plater on monday to have him find the peices.If he cant find them how will I get replacements for them?


the rest of the photos http://members19.clubphoto.com/lawrence748455/3120343/guest.phtml
 

John Mcgraw

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Larry,

The tabs are not normally removable. Yours have been repaired by milling out the end of the post and adding in a plate to replace the tab. This is a common repair on C1 posts. Back in the day, some glass shops were too lazy to pull the frame out to replace the glass, and they just removed the top screws and pulled the posts apart until they could get the glass out. Of course, this sheared off the tabs at the bottom, but they got the car out the door and the owner was none the wiser. If push comes to shove, you can make a new tab if the plater can't find yours. Just remember that it has to be concave to fit up to the bottom channel. You can probably make a pair to fit with your belt grinder in an hour or so. Unfortunately, without an original to use as a guide it might be difficult. Also, your mounting studs are misssing and will need to be replaced. Just cut the head off a bolt and Locktite them in place.

Regards, John McGraw
 

IH2LOSE

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So here is a close up of what I had sent out,If you look at it full screen you will notice a blue part number on it.And I do not see a seam where this tab would have been.


Can you see a seam,is that a gm part number? if its a gm part number then these are not my window corners

 

John Mcgraw

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Larry,

I can't see enough detail to see much in your before pics. I can't view it full screen and it is out of focus and has glare form the flash. That was however, my first impression, that I was not looking as the same post! It is highly unlikely that the plater would have removed the studs. That tab looks like an original pot-metal tab, and I do not see a seam. The after pic is clearly a post which has had the milling done to repair the tab. The replacement tabs are usually steel in construction and are usually just primed with a corrosion resistant primer or powdercoated. I kind of agree with you that maybe your plater did not return your same posts.


Regards, John McGraw
 

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