Question: Half-Shaft Installation

[Vette79]

OK, I have new half-shafts complete with flange and spicer u-joints already attached. Is it as simple as removing the old and installing the new? Any tricks or suggestions prior to removal and installation? I'm curious about tq settings and things to know before I take on this project...;help

 

[petes74ttop]

If you have a sway bar remove that from the back of the trailing arm.
Mark the position of the camber adjusting cam ( on the inner end of the strut rod ) then remove the adjusting bolt and drop the strut rod.
Romove nuts on half shaft.
Pull out back end of trailing arm and remove the half shaft.
I think that's it. PG.

 

[76okievette]

It was pretty stright forward when I did mine, started just like you are. The only issues I had were getting the u joints to sit all the way down in the mounts, wait I just saw the you have the flanges already installed so that should make it a simple job, Just go slow and you should not have any problems.

 

[Vette79]

I'm assuming there are directions in the shop manual for this procedure. I'm very new with this part of the car so could someone possibly post a pic of the strut rod and where I would mark it? Maybe pics of the actual process? This seems a little more involved then I thought but I will get through it.

 

[JimVette]

Anytime you do any work on the rear end it is always good to follow it up with a rear end alignment.

 

[73shark]

You mark the cam setting on the strut rod. And you can check/set the rear camber by using a bubble protracter.

 

[Vette79]

You mark the cam setting on the strut rod. And you can check/set the rear camber by using a bubble protracter.

I may have to get strut rod bushings and new french locks so this project will have to wait a little for funds and warmth. I'll be back at this post again when ready. Not to mention I need to locate someone possibly to do the rearend alignment when done.

 

[73shark]

You'll need to check the trailing arm shims (unless you've replaced them recently) cuz if they're original, they'll just be one big rusted chunk of metal and toe-in alignment will not be possible unless no change is required.

 

[Crimson Thunder]

You mark the cam setting on the strut rod. And you can check/set the rear camber by using a bubble protracter.

What does a bubble protractor look like.My rear camber seems off and i'd like to check it.

 

[73shark]

I got mine at Sears. It's round w/ a weighted pointer and the circumference is marked in degrees. It has a flat edge on two sides that form a right angle. I cut a 2X4 so that it contacted the rim and then used the bubble protractor to see what the camber was. Of course you have to compensate for how far off level the surface the car is sitting on.

You can also use a level and the factory spec is about 1/8" off vertical (wheel leans in at the top) for a 15" wheel.

 

[Vette79]

Are adjustable strutrods suggested over stock for camber adjustment? How many french locks will I need?

 

[73shark]

While adjustable strut rods w/ make camber setting marginally easier, not sure they are worth the expense unless you are going to replace them anyway.

I know the outer ends have them but can't remember if they are on the inner U-joints or not. So either four or eight.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

It's been a while but all I recall having to do was remove the old, have them refinished and put them back in without removing anything else.

Watch the caps on the new u-joints. You don't wnat them coming off while you're jockeying the half shafts into position.

 

[keith6469]

As you can see in the pic. The strut rod is in the lower part of the pic.

 

[Vette79]

It's been a while but all I recall having to do was remove the old, have them refinished and put them back in without removing anything else.

Watch the caps on the new u-joints. You don't wnat them coming off while you're jockeying the half shafts into position.

A few others have actually said this could be done without removing anything else as well.

 

[JohnZ]

You don't need to drop the strut rods; just disconnect the inboard U-joint from the diff yoke, remove the four bolts from the outboard drive flange to the spindle flange, push outward on the trailing arm, and remove the half-shaft. Re-assemble the same way - you'll need four french locks - two for each side.

 

[Vette79]

You don't need to drop the strut rods; just disconnect the inboard U-joint from the diff yoke, remove the four bolts from the outboard drive flange to the spindle flange, push outward on the trailing arm, and remove the half-shaft. Re-assemble the same way - you'll need four french locks - two for each side.

Thanks, John. Well, this would be easy then. Do you recommend having an alignment for all four wheels when replacing just the half shafts?

 

[JohnZ]

Thanks, John. Well, this would be easy then. Do you recommend having an alignment for all four wheels when replacing just the half shafts?

All four wheels isn't necessary, but you should have the rear camber checked and re-set; takes about five minutes on an alignment rack.

 

[Vette79]

John, can anyone do this or you think I may need a specific shop that deals with vette's? Since it appears easier then expected, I will tackle this job on my own soon. I can't wait actually...

 

[JohnZ]

John, can anyone do this or you think I may need a specific shop that deals with vette's? Since it appears easier then expected, I will tackle this job on my own soon. I can't wait actually...

Sure - you can do it - all you need is jackstands and a couple of wrenches.