Me No Sweat No More.. Bought Me A New A/C System ..This is the Best one I Have Seen.

[Viet Nam Vett]

I have done quite a bit of research on Corvette C-2 A/C Systems. But I got to tell you this one is the best I think. I was able to engineer up what I wanted with the company..... They also make C-1 & C-3 Kits

Hot Rod Air

http://www.hotrodair.com/index.html

There is a new web page that will be posted soon.

What's the best thing about there Kit.? Well for one.. it uses the original location for the heater lines on the firewall.!! That's what I liked about it. I don't have to cut the firewall or drill out any holes.

Plus, I ordered SS Lines and a Chrome Sanden Compressor and they even will supply a March Bracket to work with my exsisting March Surpentine set up. Seems they work very closely with March Pulleyes.

I ordered the kit today after speaking with David Stutts the owner of Hot Rod Air.
I also ordered a fan kit for the condenser and a Chrome Dryer..all kinds of Bling.

I also ordered a seperate contol system for the unit. This will give me the option of not having to use the standard heater controls as A/C controls. There's alot more that I ordered.

The kit will be in sometime next week and I'll take some pic's of the kit pieces and also photo document the install here so you can follow along.

Before you buy any other A/C kit... Check out Hot Rod Air...

More to come.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Okay, I'm likin' this.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Okay, I'm likin' this.

Ok...since were both Manly Men... and we both have 502's ... it's time to cut down on the cost of deoderant usage while driving our sweat mobiles..!! This kit is really sweet ... You can buit it the way you want it.

I ordered the SS A/C line kit which comes with the SS fittings and the SS hose....and the crimp rings. You can route it the way you want and then cut to fit ..then boggie on down to the Hyd store or Machine shop and have the lines crimped. The kit comes with everything you need to custom route your lines.

The best thing is you can talk to the owner and or engineer to help you select what you need. I spent about an hour getting my system designed. And what ever I don't use I can return.

 

[firstgear]

sweet....thanks!

 

[IH2LOSE]

Best of luck with the kit Mark it seams real affordable.

 

[Kid_Again]

Yup, very nice kit. The market has really matured since I bought my VA kit.

Be :cool now means a lot more to you. Let me know if you need help since I've BTDT with installing the blower box under the glove box.

Also, think about using that cork tape I showed you for sealing the holes for the HVAC lines through the fire wall. I have more than enough for you in OC so don't go nuts looking for it.

 

[JL66REDCPE]

Hmmmmm -- this is very interesting.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Ahhhh... Yes gentelman... I'm stoked. I ordered some extra Bling like a Chromed Compressor and chromed Drier and the condensor fan kit. I can't eat jut one piece of chocolate....gotta have all the goodies.

I like everything about this kit. Use guys should ckeck it out..

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Hmmmmm -- this is very interesting.

Ok John Top Fligt is Done ... Now it's time to get comfy in That BB..!!! Who knows...Maybe Sharon will ride in it if you drop AC in.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Yup, very nice kit. The market has really matured since I bought my VA kit.

Be :cool now means a lot more to you. Let me know if you need help since I've BTDT with installing the blower box under the glove box.

Also, think about using that cork tape I showed you for sealing the holes for the HVAC lines through the fire wall. I have more than enough for you in OC so don't go nuts looking for it.

Thanks Joe,..I'll need you and or John here to help me lift off the hood when I get ready to start.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Best of luck with the kit Mark it seams real affordable.

Thanks Larry..I'll be cool for Carlisle this year.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Ahhhh... Yes gentelman... I'm stoked. I ordered some extra Bling like a Chromed Compressor and chromed Drier and the condensor fan kit. I can't eat jut one piece of chocolate....gotta have all the goodies.

I like everything about this kit. Use guys should ckeck it out..

Oh believe me, I'll be watching your progress intently. The only difference, if I go this route, will be in my non-bling approach.

I'm old school. My hotrod days began with the catch phrase, "If it don't go, chrome it."

That's why my underhood ain't as purdy as VNV's.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Oh believe me, I'll be watching your progress intently. The only difference, if I go this route, will be in my non-bling approach.

I'm old school. My hotrod days began with the catch phrase, "If it don't go, chrome it."

That's why my underhood ain't as purdy as VNV's.

You got plenty of room for the standard Kit. In your case it will be a straight head bolt on. All hoses are formed with fittings ready to hook up. the condenser and drier bolt right in. Then it's remove the glove box and install the main unit. The kit even comes with a new special defroster duct that plugs into the main unit.

Plus...AC air comes out of the vent openings next to the radio left& right as well as the ball outlets on either side of the interior . Also...the control system lets you blend the air temp in any mode. I think the other kit's don't do that.

Heh ..you could order one now ... have it shipped to me and I'll bring it up and we could semi install it at Carlisle and you could drive it home.. Who would know..???

Just remove your heater box at home and will stuff this one in for the return ride home. We can duct tape the air outlet balls on ... stuff the condensor in front of the rad....bolt the compressor on without connecting it.. and stuff the rest in your luggage... otfl

 

[magicv8]

67heaven - I noticed that the stinger passage under my 66 hood above the front cross support (above the rad) is open while yours is closed. Did you close it, or do 67 hoods look like that?

I stuffed foam in mine (to keep the bugs out and the engine cooler), but I am thinking of putting a cold air duct under the stinger with a bug screen at the front.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Dave,

Other than the L-88 style fibreglass piece that sits down over the carb, mine is just a regular '67 BB hood (minus the metal insert for the stinger opening).

 

[magicv8]

Thanks. I see it in photos of Noland's book now (I just looked). They finally noticed that the higher the hp got, the harder it was to cool the engine and the engine bay.

Does anyone know if sb 67 hoods also had the opening plugged?

It doesn't look that way in Noland's book, but that's a sample size of one.

 

[Kid_Again]

Thanks Joe,..I'll need you and or John here to help me lift off the hood when I get ready to start.

yup, just lemme know

 

[Kid_Again]

67heaven - I noticed that the stinger passage under my 66 hood above the front cross support (above the rad) is open while yours is closed. Did you close it, or do 67 hoods look like that?

I stuffed foam in mine (to keep the bugs out and the engine cooler), but I am thinking of putting a cold air duct under the stinger with a bug screen at the front.

JohnZ has posted a LOT of information on boundary layers and hood cutouts...basically, if you cut open the front of the stinger, that hole is within the boundary layer which is low pressure and turbulent air so it really doesn't do much good to open up the front (the fronts were always molded solid in the front)......John suggested (and I followed his advice) that opening up the back of the hood brace is the best approach because of the high pressure area at the base of the windshield (AKA "cowl induction")....i put the cutout stinger hood on my sb '65, added the L88 air box to the underside of the hood and all's I can say is that the top of the air filter (I run a k&N top filter in addition to the standard filter and I milled the choke horn off the Holley) is COLD to the touch after a long ride in late spring....pretty impressive

..if you cut out the back of the stinger, you need to cut through both sides of the fiberglass brace......i made a template for the cutout and it worked out very well...if you decide to cut out the rear, let me know and i'll mail you the template if you promise to return it in a reasonable amount of time.


good luck

 

[magicv8]

I'm not worried about that. I don't intend to cut the hood.

The front of the stinger extends past the front of the A-C exchanger in a high pressure area at the top of the rad support. With the A-C seals in place and all the added seals I have on the rad and the shroud, air blows through there hard - carrying a lot of bugs with it as I roll down the highway. That's why I plugged the A-C seal to stinger hole with foam stuck in the hood frame.

When the electric fan is running (all the time with A-C running), the underhood compartment is pressurized, and I have two problems: I had to remove the splash shields from the openings next to the engine (allowing crud on the bulkhead), and the carb cannot find enough cold air - even with hood duct work and the air dam on the front of the air cleaner. The duct work removed 75% of the problem, but I still feel the power loss on 100F days in traffic.

To retain the stock 66 hood, I am thinking of a screen at the front of the under-stinger channel (to keep out bugs) attached to a sheet aluminum piece that runs up to the air cleaner.

As soon as I get the front aframes reinstalled and replace the water pump with a Stewart, I'll fuss with that.

PS I'm no stranger to cowl induction. I Installed it on the 64 SportFury I raced at Niagara Dragway in 64 - a few years ahead of the Camaro Z28 cowl induction set up. The thing I don't like about it is the smell of gasoline in the cabin after the car sets a while - made much worse by current gasoline formulation - and sucked into the cabin by heating/A-C blowers. With the c2 split fresh air grilles, your centered induction may not be bad, but won't work with my stock hood.

 

[magicv8]

Thanks Joe,..I'll need you and or John here to help me lift off the hood when I get ready to start.

I use a cheap block and tackle above the rear of the hood to remove/install it by myself. With a rope from it to each hood latch bayonet and the hood up, I tie it off.

Then I remove the hood hinge bolts, lift the front of the hood, walk to the side of the car with the rope and lower the hood to the floor (actually to the top of my boots). I done it dozens of times over the years. No problems.