More bad news Now on my motor

[vette rod]

Again I can not tell you enough what a trick port job on a set of heads will give you. Its all about volume vs. air speed in the port and bowl. You will gain throttle response, driveability and power in this area by far the most. It is hard to find good shop that can do this with the correct no how. Is the intake a single or dual plane?

 

[vette rod]

Also as far as HP and torque go. A good rule of thumb is stroke makes torque and bore makes HP. Small strokes love RPM as big strokes don't.

 

[henny496]

torque

Hello Larry
Torque makes the ET and horsepower makes the MPH. If you want it off the line you would want torque with a stock converter.
When driving your car you do not want the motor to be operating lower than the power band of your components. I am still unsure if you are thinking about aftermarket ovals or factory heads? If you go with the GM heads then get the bigger ovals on earlier 427's and such. The 454 smog heads are smaller in the ports(intake)
Your engine will drop down a lot in RPM with the tranny that you where speaking of.(1 -2 shift) If your converter is a lock up type, you want to make sure that you are in the rpm range of your cam at highway speed.
With your gear and tire size you can figure out what rpm you will be at highway speed(I don't remember the formula off hand, but another member may know)
If you don't have a tag on your rear end for the gear ratio, you can roughly get it by turning your driveshaft one complete revolution while seeing how many times the rear axle turns over eg: I rev on the driveshaft may have the axle go 3 1/2 times which would be 3.55:1
take care
Tom

 

[henny496]

Vette Rod

Hello larry
I did not realize Vette Rod had aready answered your questions in my last post...I am not the fastest typer
take care
Tom

 

[vette rod]

Hello larry
I did not realize Vette Rod had aready answered your questions in my last post...I am not the fastest typer
take care
Tom

That makes two of us :L I search and peck myself. How are you Tom.
I get my chance to see the legend Warren Johnson this weekend. They are at 66 this week. Warren is the man!!

 

[IH2LOSE]

Again I can not tell you enough what a trick port job on a set of heads will give you. Its all about volume vs. air speed in the port and bowl. You will gain throttle response, driveability and power in this area by far the most. It is hard to find good shop that can do this with the correct no how. Is the intake a single or dual plane?

I am not sure what it is,But it is an extra 069 manifold I have from my 1966 L 72 motor and it fits under the hood of the 62 with a carb on it perfect and thats why I wanted to use it, I also set up my gas pedal cable with this manifold.

I will also confirm the rear axle ratio tomorow morning,

 

[vette rod]

That would be a dual plane meaning the ports run up and around each other instead of a straight shot. I prefer a open plenum you can work with them more to get them to work better. They say a dual plane is better on the street but I have yet to see it. But as you say you hood clearence issues to deal with as well so this will work fine. Roller tip rockers in my opinion are a waste of money unless you have them laying around I would not bother. I don't no your budget but I would consider a nice hydraulic roller cam.

 

[IH2LOSE]

I don't no your budget


Well this new motor was not in the budjet,

A re-freshing of the lS6 was.

So allthough I am running out of money on this car.

I wont cut corners on anything,If its needed Ill get it.
I guessed way over on my chrome and bright work,and on paint and body work.So I have a slight surplus from that.But I went over on some other stuff.So I am realley slightly over budjet up to this point.

I also invested in a baldor buffer and a multi grinder to polish some stuff allthough I will use this tool forever and all of my other projects I only purchased this because of this car Thanks John McGraw and Rich L for the recomendations Great tools no one should be with out.

The engine,and engine bay area will put me way over.Originally I had figured on using billet mounting brakets from march performance.But when I ordered there catalog I found a serpentine convertion kit That works out just perfect for the car The cost alone on this system is about 2400.00.The original way I had planned was about 800.00.Doesnt sould like alot of money but when you look at it as a percentage its way over.

I really have to restrain my self here,because I always wanted a car that could pull the wheels.The engine builder says as long as I can get traction I could have this motor built to pull the wheels NO problems especially with such a rigid frame with out alot of extra money,

But that was never the goal of the project so I have to keep saying to my self," a car the wife can drive,a car the wife can drive"

Back in the earley eighties I had built a 1972 Gran Prix with a full out race motor (real high maintnence and fuel cost) and a real high stall converter in it that was impossible for her to drive.(it was a real sleaper and a Iroc/Z28 killer) but because of the High stall converter it was impossible for her to drive and dangerous for me in the rain with or with out slicks on it. I remember a hill by my house that I was petrified to get stuck at a light on,even keeping my foot on the brake it was nearley impossible to use the gas and brake to get going with out an increadable launch.and if the road was wet it was impossible,

I am going to contact the motor builder today to tell him the rear axle ratio and tire size,give him the tranny gearing, and see what he says when I ok the oval heads and pull the 069 intake from the mix.

I will re post his specs and see what you guys have to say and maybee I can order this today.

Thanks Again for all your help as I said before I am way over my head in designing this motor ,but I now uderstand the importance have having the correct rpm range (because of the auto trans) and need to rely on you guys and the builder to set me up correct.

 

[craig32]

Roller tip rockers in my opinion are a waste of money unless you have them laying around I would not bother. I don't no your budget but I would consider a nice hydraulic roller cam.

I'm still trying to figure out an advantage of roller rockers. Roller lifters on the other hand make a lot of sense. The cam in my project engine is a gear driven Isky with solid roller lifters. Are you saying roller lifters come in hydraulic as well? If so, which kind would provide what advantages? All I ever heard about solids were 'noisy' and need adjusting. Thanks.

Craig32, visiting from the C3 sector!

 

[Mac]

craig32, the advantage of roller rockers is a reduction in friction and more precise lift ratio. That being said, I've been told the reduction in friction isn't as remarkable as one might think and the precise lift ratio is more important.

Roller lifters are available in hydraulic and offer all the advantages of regular hydraulic lifters along with the advantages of solid rollers.

-Mac

 

[vette rod]

With the roller rockers and lifters you can run a much higher valve spring rate. This allows you to have more control of your cam profile without coil bind and breaking springs and floating valves.

www.pugesekmotorsports.com