Planet 67 gets under way...

[67HEAVEN]

By the way, when building walls in sections, do I pretend that the additional stud (at the wall-section joints) is not really there for the purpose of measuring for the 16" o/c?

I hope that made sense.

 

[Scott Winebarger]

By the way, when building walls in sections, do I pretend that the additional stud (at the wall-section joints) is not really there for the purpose of measuring for the 16" o/c?

I hope that made sense.

Yep, and when you get it all stood up, if theres a place that needs one put in an extra. I added about 10 and doubled under the double truss

 

[Toms007]

By the way, when building walls in sections, do I pretend that the additional stud (at the wall-section joints) is not really there for the purpose of measuring for the 16" o/c?

I hope that made sense.

I read you loud and clear! The way that I would go about it is thusly. Get the top and bottom plates laid out (all 36 feet of the them) and get the 16" O.C. studs drawn out. You need to make sure that the spacing is accurate as it will save your rear down the road when you get ready to put the sheathing and siding on later. Make sure that you add any additional studs in where the plates meet (the ends of your 12' sections). Since you are doubling the top plate (good move BTW, so many people are skimping here now days), it will tie everything together just fine. If you are going to be doing a more or less standard type gable roof you can go 24" O.C. with the trusses, but since you are going a 36' span 16" O.C. might be called for. And I am not sure what type of live loads you experience up there. So I guess in retrospect I would have to say consult your truss building company to find out what they recommend for your situation.

I don't know if anyone still uses them, but there used to be available, a metal strap that was bent in a "short fat T" ( the top of the T was about 2" wide and the vertical part about 1/2") that all you do is square up the wall section and snap a diagonal line across the wall and using a circular saw cut a 1/2" deep kerf along the line. then take the short-fat T and drive it into the kerf and nail down the cross portion on each stud. Makes those sections very sturdy and rigid. I used them when I built my house and they go on quick and easy.

As far as setting those trusses, I'd recommend something other than doing it by hand, at least for me, I'm too old for trying the heft those baby's around.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Thanks, Tom. What's the overall length of these T-straps?

 

[Toms007]

Bob, I think the ones I bought were 12'. They might have them longer.

 

[Scott Winebarger]

OK Bob, what's going on up there ? I need progress ! !

 

[67HEAVEN]

Yesterday, I had a 20-foot wide river between me and the construction site. Today, it's frozen over. Instead of building, I'm playing a game of SHINNY with the boys. :W

But I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

 

[Scott Winebarger]

Yesterday, I had a 20-foot wide river between me and the construction site. Today, it's frozen over. Instead of building, I'm playing a game of SHINNY with the boys. :W

But I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

Cruisefest will be tough to make with 2 broken legs and arms!

Save it for the garage ! :L

 

[67HEAVEN]

Yesterday, I had a 20-foot wide river between me and the construction site. Today, it's frozen over.

http://i30.tinypic.com/30v2o1e.jpg

(too wide to post here)

 

[Scott Winebarger]

http://i30.tinypic.com/30v2o1e.jpg

(too wide to post here)

Thats pretty serious !

 

[67HEAVEN]

Question for the construction guys on here.

I'm wondering if it would be easier (better???) to run a load-bearing wall between bays two and three. This hip-roof garage will be 36' x 36'.

Would it be easier to design a "vaulted" truss (or whatever the proper term is) that would allow lots of height in a 24'w x 36'd area rather than in a 36' x 36' area?

Thanks.

 

[Tom Bryant]

It wouldn't hurt but I'm no engineer. (Don't even know how to drive a train.)

I'd segregate bay 3 just to have a place to spray paint, even if it's just spray canning small parts. It will keep the overspray off of everything in the shop.

 

[G Winter]

I'd segregate bay 3 just to have a place to spray paint, even if it's just spray canning small parts. It will keep the over spray off of everything in the shop.

I agree , it would be a good idea to have an area for this type of thing. Don't know if your going to have and engine assembly room but if you don't you sure want a place to do dirty work so it isn't all over everything.

Glenn

 

[67vet]

If you run a wall between bays 2 and three then you only have to worry about spanning 24 feet rather than 36 feet. Also, did you plan on heating the entire space? Heating only one bay for winter work would be a lot easier.
You sure have a great looking project going on.

 

[Toms007]

Bob, as far as the trusses go, most places that build them have the software to make sure that they are designed to hold appropriate loads. Just contact your truss designer, they can design them to work for you just about any way you want (the difference should just be $$$).

Now if you put a load bearing wall in it will make a difference on how the trusses will be designed, so ultimately it will be up to you whether or not to do it ahead of time. Tom and Glenn have made some pretty good cases for the division and they make total sense. But remember trusses can be designed to be free spanning or rely on load bearing intermediate walls. the choice is yours.

Bob what kind of a roof slope are you considering? 4/12, 5/12, 6/12 (i.e. 4 inches rise per foot of run)

 

[67HEAVEN]

Bob what kind of a roof slope are you considering? 4/12, 5/12, 6/12 (i.e. 4 inches rise per foot of run)

Tom,

Currently, I am planning on a 5/12 pitch (matches the house), but am certainly open to suggestions.

Everyone,

Thanks for the helpful ideas.

 

[Toms007]

Bob, check your pm

 

[67HEAVEN]

Tom,

Thanks for those drawings. They'll be very helpful.
==========================

Next question, everyone. I presume that a load-bearing wall must be anchored on pier footings, rather than just on the slab floor. In other words, I assume that I should install several of these under the load-bearing wall (from front to rear of garage).

How many feet between them? The wall will be 36' long.

If not this method, then what? Maybe getting down to the frostline doesn't matter on an interior load-bearing wall?

 

[Toms007]

Bob, I'm not sure what your codes are like there, so I will preface this by saying that around here, we would just pour an additional 12" wide footing under where the bearing wall will sit, directly under the floor. Beings the space will be heated I don't think that it has to be below frost line. But our frost line is much higher than yours.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Tom,

I'm off to the town building department, this afternoon, to discuss the roof truss ideas with them. Tom, your drawings will assist me in my explanations. Thanks.

I'll determine their requirements in terms of:

• headers across the 36' building depth (three 2"x10"???????)
• support column size
• spacing between support columns
• support column footing depth and dimensions
• relationship between support column footings and slab floor *
• relationship between slab floor and exterior foundation **

* I read an architect's opinion that support column footings should be isolated from a slab floor by several inches of gravel to minimize cracking potential

** Should the garage floor be tied into the exterior foundation block? When I built my first garage (20' x 20'), at our former house, I dug several trenches across the width, in the crushed stone, in preparation for laying in the rebar bundles. The guy who poured the floor for me, first used a pick-axe to smash holes in the exterior concrete block at the ends of the trenches, and inserted the rebar bundles right into the blocks. Then, the floor was poured, including the rebar bundles, flowing into the holes in the blocks, effectively tying it all together. No cracks ever developed over the seven years I owned it. Now, I'm wondering if a floor this large (36' x 36') should be tied to the sides.

Comments are welcomed.