Project Anti-Ken-A Very Low Budget 350 build

[Tom Bryant]

I just bought these '81 manifolds from Chris (69MyWay). I'm going to remove the heat shields, the AIR tubes and weld up the holes. Then clean them up and see what they look like. They are stainless so I'm hoping for the best. They are the same basic demensions as the iron manifolds so the standard front pipes I have should bolt right on. (2")
The tube size is 1 1/2" and the ports after I reshaped them slightly and polished them ended up just slightly smaller than 1 1/2". Should be a good match and unlike common headers these GM tubular manifolds don't leak. I think they will look pretty nice and perform much better than the old crusty and lumpy rams horns.

 

[69MyWay]

Shipping out on Monday. You should see them soon.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Thanks Chris. My goal for tomorrow is to get the heads finished so I can take them back over to H&W for the valve job and surfacing.

Tom

 

[Tom Bryant]

These are cool too but I'll bet they cost a lot more that the ones i got.

http://www.corvette.co.uk/headers.html

 

[Ken]

They are cool Tom. I've been seein' variations on that theme all around lately; one of the major manufacturers had a booth at the California Hot Rod Reunion last week and they caught my eye. Of course, being with Hal, who owns a '62, may have had something to do with that. :L

 

[Tom Bryant]

They would look sharp on a '62. I like the way they took the middle tubes up over the top to the outside of the collector to get equal length. That also gives them a unique look. The page says 695 plus VAT (value added tax?) I assume that is pounds sterling not dollars.

Tom

 

[Tom Bryant]

Cheap headers

Here are the 1981 L81 shorty header manifolds I got from 69MyWay (Chris). I have removed the galvanized sheet metal heat shields and also the AIR tubes from the one. A cut off wheel made short work of them. I also started to clean up the one with a 3M scuffing wheel in the die grinder. I won't be able to get down in the tight areas though. I may take them to be media blasted or try different liqued cleaners. They are stainless but a little rough textured due to the fact the tubing is cast stainless. It would be nice if I could buff them but I don't think it is possible to get down in the tight areas enough to make them look nice. I will probably coat them instead.

The welds are pretty rough but a little grinding should take care of that. The welds on the inner flanges are very thick. I think I can remove at least 1/2 of it to match the ports without risking strength. I also found a fine crack in the weld on one of the collectors. I'll grind that off some and have it repaired when I take them to get the AIR tube holes welded closed. After the tube holes are welded closed I'll remove the short stub of tubing that protrudes inside the header tubes.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Here are the heads all ready to go back to the machine shop for machine work. Now if that cursed water heater hadn't stolen my engine project money I could take them over there tomorrow.ad

Oh well. It isn't like I can't find anything else to do.

 

[Ken]

Lookin' good Tom!

 

[Rowdy1]

Nothing For 62?

I've been putting off the last and very important job of headers on my 62. I get plenty of air in, but not out. I'm using the stock 2 1/2" rams with some metal removal to better match the heads. I have Trick Flow heads and NOBODY makes a bolt up header for them to fit a 62. At best, I have to buy a set, have them fitted so I can access the spark plugs, that being the problem I should add, send them out for coating and reinstall. There are headers made for the 62 SB but not with the angle of the spark plug on the Trick Flows. I looked on the sites you posted Tom and once again, 63 and newer. A true tuned header would have one tube out and over the frame which would also require me to mount the battery in the trunk and adapt a mini starter. Then I still "may" have a ground clearance problem with the collector. If I had access to a lift for a month or so I'd be more up for the challenge but I don't any more I "sort of" like the looks of the UK's, I'd like them even more if they had a set that bolted up with the clearance issue I have, would save me a lot of time & $$$$$. Feel free to chime in with any idea's Ken, Tom, John,......anyone?

 

[Ken]

You're *****in' about the cost of a custom set of headers for your beloved '62 and yet you go out and buy a Harley-Davidson?? Well, you did ask, Lou ...

 

[Rowdy1]

NOT What I Asked For...........

You're *****in' about the cost of a custom set of headers for your beloved '62 and yet you go out and buy a Harley-Davidson?? Well, you did ask, Lou ...

I tend to procrastinate but once I make up my mind, I go all out. If I still had access to a shop and a lift as I did when I built the engine, it would have been done by now. Until I get the results for my back and see where that's going, I'm completely on hold, hell, I can't even wash the 62 or the Harley, or the truck or the trailer or the boat, oh wait, THAT"S RIGHT...........I "almost" forgot, I HAD to sell the boat to GET the Harley But I DO Thank You for the ";help " Bro

 

[Tom Bryant]

My '59 has the 2 1/2" fuelie manifolds too. I had a set of Doug's on there once but the collector was too low. I have been thinking of fabbing my own set of tri-Ys to get a proper fit to the factory off road exhaust when I get around to working on this car. Do they make header flanges for the Trick Flow heads?

Might just be that a pair of flanges, a stack of mandrel bends, a cut off saw and a mig or tig welder is your best bet. Just think of all the fun you could have.

Tom

 

[Tom Bryant]

I dropped off the heads on Tuesday. Now I just waite for the call. I told him to take .020 off the surface. That will set the static compression ratio at 9.3:1 with a .020 compressed thickness head gasket.

I spent all of one day cleaning the garage of all the iron dust. That stuff goes everywhere.:eek

Tom

 

[Tom Bryant]

:J My heads are done. Now I have to find time to go get them.

 

[Ken]

TIME <<--- There it is Tom! :L

 

[Tom Bryant]

Thanks Ken. I used that time you found me this morning and picked up the heads. I have a little hand work to do around the edges of the chambers to emery off the sharp edge left from the milling process. Then paint them and they will be ready to go on.

 

[Tom Bryant]

I have the paint drying on one head right now so I thought I'd add up the bill to see what this thing cost. All I need to do is go get some thread sealer for the head bolts and I can put on the heads. At that point I can stamp the engine DONE.

I still have the carb and distributor to rebuild yet but if anyone was following this rebuild as a guide to rebuilding their L48 or L98 they would be about the same for the basic engine assembly and they should be able to duplicate the results. This will be a good performing engine that should make cruising a pleasure.

So what did my $500. rebuild come out to?

$1249.91

Not too shabby when compared to your average crate engine. I saved a lot of money and had a lot of fun doing it myself. I hope it runs.

Attached is the complete summary of the build for your viewing pleasure. I'll post a picture when I get the heads on.

Thanks for sharing in this thread. It's been fun.

Tom

 

[JohnZ]

Very cool, and nice detailed cost summary; I'm sure she'll run like a top!

 

[Tom Bryant]

Thanks John. I just couldn't resist setting everything together for a quick photo. I never did get out to get some thread sealer.
Got the heads deburred and painted though.