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Toe should be the same on both sides. It is more imporant that the camber be the same from side to side than the exact amount of camber. I run a lot of negitive camber and have not noticed any additional tire wear.JrRifleCoach said:My rear toe is 1/16 IN on the LR and 1/8 IN on the RR. I know this off the top of my head, the rest I'll dig up and post later.
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JrRifleCoach said:Does anyone throw ballast in the drivers seat when getting an alignment?
The guy who sold my Vette to me used to drag an 87 model. He told me that, in his experience, the most frequent cause of torque steer was worn/tire bushings/cushions followed by worn hub bearings. I think he was prepping me for torque steer because when I left with the car I found that it did OK while you were into the throttle (talking enthusiastic accel here) but the moment you let off the car took a dive for the ditch. I replaced the tires and it went away. Sidewalls were flexing too much.JrRifleCoach said:NO!!! :L Not drifting! The drift I refer to is when the car slowly drifts rather than being steered. At certain speeds above 65 this drift can amount to half a lane. But again, we're talking about negligable power settings, not WOT. This happens when the drive train is wound up and applying light cruise power and then when the drivetrain unwinds as you let off the gas.
Yes I have C-beam plates which did resolve the WOT, AZZ out to the right!otfl Like I indicated in the begining, I found almost every mod and quality parts to get this problem resolved only for it to return. Thats why I'm fishing for anyone elses experiences to built a plan of attack.
Now one guy at the CF had a rather interesting twist. He races gas powered Radio Controlled cars and experienced that different spring pressures can cause the RC to " torque steer" under power. I know that the rear spring is centered, but the adjustments are considerably different from side to side. So I'm thing of spinning the spring around and testing the theroy.
What say you!?
Nope! The suspension (frt & r) have been overhauled. New everything (tie rods, bearings, shocks, etc) and a full ES poly bushing kit.Chickenjerk said:With the tires off the ground, do the tires move sid to side 3 to 9 o'clockish direction?
Chickenjerk said:You don't need a spring compressor. Get the car up on jack stands, ( unless you can work under it while it's sitting on the ground), place a hydrolic jack under one side of the transverse spring at the end, or tip of the spring. Jack up the spring to release preasure from the long bolt w/ the rubber bushings on it. Take the cotter pin out and take off the nut, then lower the jack until the spring is relaxed. Then do the other side. Install in revers order. You may have to have the rear off the ground for the spring to drop enough to rest in a hanging position.
Good luck!
I still think it's worn bushings causing mis-alignment of the rear wheels during coasting.
AIRBUS said:Just 75k miles.
Hrtbeat1 said:And 15-16 years of exposure. The weather and elements themselves break down the rubber over time. I replaced the complete rear bushings with poly ... liked it so much I ordered the complete front set ... never got to install it though.
http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/htmlinstruct/align.htm
That is the list for specs according to VB and P
G
AIRBUS said:Well, you're right. I was in their site yesterday but didn't have time to put together a parts list. I'm going to call them today and order the whole enchilada. If you've still got those parts I'd be willing to take them off your hands, assuming we can do business.
Man, I feel ya. Sorry to hear it turned out that way. We went down to Stonewall, MS after the storm to help family and, upon finding out they were OK, helped out at the Nat Gd Armory. Then, our kids cleared fallen trees for folks, and our Son-in-law left his gen to the church for whomever needed. All that to say that we got only a glimpse of what you all endured. I'm very disappointed to hear that the vendor in St. Pete took the stance they did.Hrtbeat1 said:Man I wish I did. I sent the front rebuild kit, extreme front spring, front sway bar, front Bilsteins, Camber brace, and all the new extra bushings back over a month ago. Still waiting on my credit, which has me a little miffed. I just received all the parts 4 days before Katrina hit, then ended up losing the car due to circumstances of the storm. When I finally got a chance I called and was told that due to the amount of time that had elapsed they would take the parts back less a 10% restocking fee. Talk about adding insult to injury. Sure it was over a month since the parts all arrived, but look at the circumstances. We were without power for two weeks, telephones and cable/internet for almost a month, and many were without anything, the storm took all they had. How about just a little compassion. It almost made me wish St. Petersburg would experience the same kind of devistation.
Sorry about the rant.
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AIRBUS said:Man, I feel ya. Sorry to hear it turned out that way. We went down to Stonewall, MS after the storm to help family and, upon finding out they were OK, helped out at the Nat Gd Armory. Then, our kids cleared fallen trees for folks, and our Son-in-law left his gen to the church for whomever needed. All that to say that we got only a glimpse of what you all endured. I'm very disappointed to hear that the vendor in St. Pete took the stance they did.
I spent one of my best lifetimes on the Coast. We had a home in Ocean Springs until Hurricane Camille came through in ´69 and later I lost a sailboat to Hurricane Sam. I feel what you guys went through and my heart goes out to you.Hrtbeat1 said:Man I wish I did. I sent the front rebuild kit, extreme front spring, front sway bar, front Bilsteins, Camber brace, and all the new extra bushings back over a month ago. Still waiting on my credit, which has me a little miffed. I just received all the parts 4 days before Katrina hit, then ended up losing the car due to circumstances of the storm. When I finally got a chance I called and was told that due to the amount of time that had elapsed they would take the parts back less a 10% restocking fee. Talk about adding insult to injury. Sure it was over a month since the parts all arrived, but look at the circumstances. We were without power for two weeks, telephones and cable/internet for almost a month, and many were without anything, the storm took all they had. How about just a little compassion. It almost made me wish St. Petersburg would experience the same kind of devistation.
Sorry about the rant.
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The Problem now Day's is there is almost No Good Alignment left!! We are a Vanishing Breed replaced by computer wizz kid's that only Know, TOW and GO alignment!! If it's close they let it go!! They can't set in the seat and drive it and tell that it is still not right or tell which end or side is not right!!! No 2 car's or Truck's are alike, When assembled on the same line one right after another the frame's (WILL NOT MEASURE the SAME) I've seen'm as much as 8mm off NEW!! I've had to loosen rear and front cradles and shift them to get the alignment, loosen trailing arm's and shift them forward or backward, run rear tow off to right or left. My equip. is antique and Manual and take's allot of time!! And sometimes 2-3 Test Drives and changes. But when I'm Finished, It will Slither down the Road!! And be friendly to your Tire's!!Hrtbeat1 said:Part of the problem is the geometry of the rear spring itself. During movement the spring will slightly change the toe of the rear wheels. I recently saw an show on Speed channel that was talking about this problem in reference to autocrossing. As the spring loads and the tires/wheels go upwards it causes the rear tires to toe in more, thus changing the driveability. The suggested change was to toe the rears out slightly.
It is a little harder to explain but with the video of the wheel travel it made more sense.
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gmjunkie said:The Problem now Day's is there is almost No Good Alignment left!! We are a Vanishing Breed replaced by computer wizz kid's that only Know, TOW and GO alignment!! If it's close thy let it go!! Thy can't set in the seat and drive it and tell that it is still not right or tell which end or side is not right!!! No 2 car's or Truck's are alike, When assembled on the same line one right after another the frame's (WILL NOT MEASURE the SAME) I've seen'm as much as 8mm off NEW!! I've had to loosen rear and front cradles and shift them to get the alignment, loosen trailing arm's and shift them forward or backward, run rear tow off to right or left. My equip. is antique and Manual and take's allot of time!! And sometimes 2-3 Test Drives and changes. But when I'm Finished, It will Slither down the Road!! And be friendly to your Tire's!!junk!!
Hrtbeat1 said:Part of the problem is the geometry of the rear spring itself. During movement the spring will slightly change the toe of the rear wheels. I recently saw an show on Speed channel that was talking about this problem in reference to autocrossing. As the spring loads and the tires/wheels go upwards it causes the rear tires to toe in more, thus changing the driveability. The suggested change was to toe the rears out slightly.