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What motor oil do you use?

oil brands

Looking for recommendations as to the best motor oil to use in my big block. What do you guys use?
Thanks in advance.
I use Castrol GTX 20w-50----my understanding is this is one of the brands/weights that still has a fair amount of ZDDP which is supposed to counter camshaft lobe wear in flat tappet engines. There are also others, but I have always had good results with the Castrol brand.

Steve
 
Redline Synthetic?

I use Redline Synthetic 10W40. Can anyone provide the proper ZDDP amounts for this product???
 
Why not call Redline direct for that information or check their website for it?
OK...Who invited Captain Obvious to the party??? :L :thumb
 
Why not call Redline direct for that information or check their website for it?

:beer
First thing I did was go to their website as well as googling for the info. No such luck. I suppose I could call but I took this route first thinking it would of been quicker and easier.
 
www.bobistheoilguy.com has virgin oil samples for many different types of oil. Redline is one of them. As far as how long to leave the oil in. The only real sure fire way is to send in a used oil sample after running it so many miles and see how it is doing. The test will tell you if it is still protecting your engine and will recommend either leave the oil in longer next time or change it sooner. A test will also tell you if you have any abnormal metal wear. Anything else other than a scientific test on used oil in regards to how long to leave the oil in is hear say, snake oil, and myth.
 
Mobil 1

Theres a reason GM uses Mobil1 in all their high end engines, they want the best protection! If it didn't work, they wouldn't waste their money. I worked at a Mobil station for 10 years and have taken my engines apart and they are as clean as the commercials state. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Theres a reason GM uses Mobil1 in all their high end engines, they want the best protection! If it didn't work, they wouldn't waste their money. I worked at a Mobil station for 10 years and have taken my engines apart and they are as clean as the commercials state. Just my 2 cents worth.

True, but that's comparing apples and oranges; modern GM engines have roller-everything valvetrains, with little or no points of sliding contact, and don't need the level of high-pressure anti-wear additives oil used to have. Our classics with sliding-contact flat-tappet cams have different lubrication requirements than modern roller-everything cars do.

:beer
 
True, but that's comparing apples and oranges; modern GM engines have roller-everything valvetrains, with little or no points of sliding contact, and don't need the level of high-pressure anti-wear additives oil used to have. Our classics with sliding-contact flat-tappet cams have different lubrication requirements than modern roller-everything cars do.

Given the context of this thread and your response, you seem to be implying that, in present day terms on older non-roller engines, synthetics do not offer sufficient anti-wear additives but dino does? And if that's what you are implying - is that all dino or just gas engine dino (vs diesel)?
 
I think you've misinterpreted why there is no oil cooler and why GM filled with Mobil 1 instead of dino.

Synthetic oils do not cause an engine to run any cooler (or hotter) than any other type.

Boy, that sure seems to fly in the face of my "misinterpreted" understanding of GM4718. ;shrug

Rather than accusing someone of misinterpreting... - perhaps you could enlighten us with your interpretation? :confused

Also please reconcile the following:

Synthetics have no advantage over dino except for the potential for longer change interval.

Fact: You state "Synthetics have no advantage over dino" :bash

Fact: GM Specified 4718 oil for later C4s.:eek:hnoes

Fact: Synthetics but not dinos meet GM 4718.:nono

I'm confused: :Silly If synthetics "have no advantage" over dino - then why don't they also meet 4718? :confused
 
Given the context of this thread and your response, you seem to be implying that, in present day terms on older non-roller engines, synthetics do not offer sufficient anti-wear additives but dino does? And if that's what you are implying - is that all dino or just gas engine dino (vs diesel)?

It has nothing to do with synthetic-vs-dino oil; it has to do with the first-listed API service rating, which identifies the level of anti-wear additive in the product. If it's "SM" (the current standard for 90% of the oil sold at retail), it doesn't provide adequate protection for older flat-tappet engines (max 800ppm zinc/phos).
 
Given the context of this thread and your response, you seem to be implying that, in present day terms on older non-roller engines, synthetics do not offer sufficient anti-wear additives but dino does? And if that's what you are implying - is that all dino or just gas engine dino (vs diesel)?

It has nothing to do with synthetic-vs-dino oil; it has to do with the first-listed API service rating, which identifies the level of anti-wear additive in the product. If it's "SM" (the current standard for 90% of the oil sold at retail), it doesn't provide adequate protection for older flat-tappet engines (max 800ppm zinc/phos).


pgtr- I think the short story is that dino oil was produced for cars that had a need for greater zinc and phosphorous.

Flash forward 25 to 30 years and the technology of the engines has improved greatly. Consequently- the oil has changed with it and to meet the needs of modern engines. We live in different times where engines need different protections from what they needed decades ago. 100k miles with an L48 was high mileage as that engine wore its tappets and rockers out. 150k miles in an LS1 is common to see now days with its roller valve train.

Put bluntly, one of the reasons older engines can wear out in less mileage is due to greater friction within the drive train- friction that JohnZ points out lies in non-roller valve trains.

The argument about oil is really engine/needs based- not so much oil technology based.

:beer
 
in my big block i was told to use shell rotella t

Good choice - Rotella T (and any other brand of oil whose first-listed API service rating is CI-4 or CJ-4) has 1100-1200 PPM of zinc/phos, which provides adequate protection for any OEM flat-tappet valvetrain.

:beer
 
pgtr- I think the short story is that dino oil was produced for cars that had a need for greater zinc and phosphorous.

Flash forward 25 to 30 years and the technology of the engines has improved greatly. Consequently- the oil has changed with it and to meet the needs of modern engines. We live in different times where engines need different protections from what they needed decades ago. 100k miles with an L48 was high mileage as that engine wore its tappets and rockers out. 150k miles in an LS1 is common to see now days with its roller valve train.

Put bluntly, one of the reasons older engines can wear out in less mileage is due to greater friction within the drive train- friction that JohnZ points out lies in non-roller valve trains.

The argument about oil is really engine/needs based- not so much oil technology based.

:beer

Good explanation.

Conversely, there's no evidence indicating engines that would have worn out at 100K miles when using dino oil will now wear out at 150K miles if using synthetic.
 
Its just so much easier to go to a full roller cam and not worry about this oil stuff.
 
6 quarts of Valvoline straight 30w and a can of GM EOS.
 
I use Redline Synthetic 10W40. Can anyone provide the proper ZDDP amounts for this product???

Red Line 10W40 has approximately 1200 PPM ZDDP. I use Red Line Synthetic Engine oils in all my engines because it is an ester-based synthetic and has an EP additive package more than adequate for flat tappet camshafts.

For additional information on ZDDP and engine oils for Corvettes see an article here on the CAC at: Engine Oil Deep Dive - CAC's Comprehensive Look at Engine Oil and Flat-Tappet Camshaft Durability
 

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