Recent content by coffeejolts

I get about 12mpg in Atlanta traffic. A few less and Scott Miller could write a song about my car. "8 Miles Per Gallon" @ Grey Eagle, Asheville, NC 1.29.09 - YouTube

The car was running when I checked the voltage. The battery light on the dash is on brightly and the dash volt meter is reading low (which is correct). I checked it once more after my post. The voltage on that connector is about 2 volts less than battery voltage, but way higher than the 2 to 4...

I was testing my alternator today using the matrix in the shop manual. I'm pretty sure the alternator is shot- I was getting 8v (battery voltage only) at the BAT post- seems like I should get 12-14v. However, I continued the test and checked the voltage at the the #1 connector. The matrix says...

I can't know for sure without looking at the car, but I'd guess that the other rubber hoses need replaced. You replaced the front driver's side hose, so that caliper is getting full pressure from the master cylinder. If the other hoses are flexing, that explains why they are not locking up...

If it were me, I'd sell it. You can go out and find another for less than you'll spend to finish the one you have.

Update I jumpered the low pressure switch's connector and the compressor did not engage. Then I checked the voltage through it with my multimeter. When I have the A/C on, there is less than one volt going through the wires to the compressor. It should be 12+. This sounded like a grounding...

Thanks! I will check the pressure switch when I get today. If I short it and the clutch engages, then I either have low freon (and a leak) or a faulty pressure switch. If the clutch does not engage, then it is either wiring or the dash control. Right?

The A/C on my '81 hasn't worked in a long while. The A/C clutch never engages. So yesterday, I checked the A/C clutch by running a wire from the battery to the positive terminal on the compressor. Bingo- clutch engaged. So now I suspect the switch in the dash, but I'd like to check the pressure...

Good to hear!

Thanks for the very cool article.

Ok. It sounds like you don't have a multimeter yourself, but that you took it to a shop who told you that the motor is fine but there is no current. If the passenger side works but the driver's side does not, then you know that the circuit breaker is fine. You also know that the circuitry common...

The first thing to check is the current at the motor. Hook up a multimeter and see what it says.

Good find, Peter. This should be stickied !

Just a thought... In this economy, you could buy a C3 Convertible for less than the money it will cost to convert your 81 into one. Think about it. You spend the same amount of money and end up with two Corvettes instead of one. It's a no-brainer.

It sounds like multiple problems are at work. The first thing you need to do (regardless) is solve your steering system problems. Fix the leak, make sure the car is properly aligned (all four wheels), check tie rods, make sure your tires are all inflated to the correct psi. The car should track...