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Alternator Amps ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter clar2001
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clar2001

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Hello I need to install a new alternator and I would like to put one in with more amps maby 100, will this create any problems, I am not aware of the rating on my curent one the manual says 42amps but I'm not sure, I plan on installing electric fans & a amp for my stero and whant to make sure I can meet the load .......

Your input would be appreachied..........75 stingray 350 with ac .
 
I'm in the same boat (electric fans, and possibly adding fuel injection at some future time). I think the issue really comes down to what will bolt in, vs. what will fit with some modifications.

I think I would definitely install some new wires to the alternator, with the increase in amps. Wires that are over 25 years old, combined with overheating due to higher amps, is a recipe for trouble. Larger-gauge, brand new wire will not have problems. But correct sizing is important - too big or too small are both bad news.

Joe
 
I went with a higher amp alternator too. I had to replace a couple of the wires anyhow since the previous alternator had caught on fire:eek. I went with stock wires though and never had any problems.
 
Mainly increased resistance. Which means more heat. Wires should be properly sized for the application - there's a margin of error, of course, but going too far in either direction is bad.

Heavy-guage wire is also a pain to work with, so keeping the guage down to the proper level makes installation easier. I've seen some people put ridiculously large wires in power systems.

Joe
 
I wanted to go from stock amp to 140amp so I can run electric fans and my stero amps, will I need to upgrade the wires the main voltage wire the red one seems pretty heavy ...? I never even thought about the wires..
 
Joe, So larger wires are just a PITA to work with, not necessarily dangerous (i guess unless because they're a PITA, you install incorrectly.)
Thicker wires have less resistance (proportional to the inverse of the area, something twice as thick has 1/4 the resistance) and longer ones have more (twice as lng, twice the resistance)


I was also thinking about putting in some electrical components, does a very high amp alternator make a better idea than two alternators? (assuming one can fit it)
 
TomOB said:
Thicker wires have less resistance (proportional to the inverse of the area, something twice as thick has 1/4 the resistance) and longer ones have more (twice as lng, twice the resistance)

I thought adding thickness also added resistance. But, it's been a while since the last time I took an electrical engineering class, so maybe I got something else mixed in there. (length definitely does add resistance, like you say - a good reason to adoid excessively-long wire runs)

I do remember there was some reason (other than just annoyance) to avoid going too high on the guage. Any decent book on automotive wiring should have a chart that lists wige guages and the recommended amp ratings for a 12V system, though.

TomOB said:
I was also thinking about putting in some electrical components, does a very high amp alternator make a better idea than two alternators? (assuming one can fit it)

One would be better, unless you were going truly nuts on the amps. Nothing I can imagine on a Corvette would justify a second alternator.

I'm not sure exactly how many amps you'll need, since I don't know what you're adding. Best bet is to take the stock alternator rating, call that the amount that the car draws, and then add on the ratings of the items you plan on adding. Use the continuous draw, not the maximum draw, on things like fans or other items that draw more at startup, since the battery will act as a buffer during the period when it draws more. Add a bit of a margin of error, and as long as your alternator can supply that amount of current, you'll be fine.

Joe
 
My 2 cents - The alt is a function of capacity, the draw of your electrical sytems would determine wire size. You could use a clamp on style ammeter to determine what draw is across your wires, but 100 amps is pretty good in vehicle applications, many houses have 200 amp service. If you wire correctly with good connections and balance your connections across different circuits versus put everything to the radio fuse you can do a lot with a standard alternator, better yet add a fuse box that defers load to a different palce than standard fuse box and you can do more. When you add amp circuits and such add a different circuit than the vehicle standard.'

Mike
 
Well I no longer have ac so I was going to use the heavy guage power wire from that for my fans ,
Question I understand the correct guage wire for resistance , but how far back do I need to go in replacing them cut at harness on fire wall, I don't want to replace the hole wireing harness just doing a upgrade here.... but of course I want to do it right $ senisable,,,,, :confused
 
mike, homes do have 100-200 amp service (i think my houses 100)...but dont forget the voltage is 10x. just a fine point.
now this is going out on a limb...but has anyone seen the 42 volt stuff thats supposex to be phased in? or does one need to hook up 3 alt's together?
 
House wiring is also A/C, not D/C - totally different systems.

42V systems would use a single alternator - just one built to produce higher voltage. The voltage is a function of the internal construction of the alternator. Change a few things, and the voltage can be changed. Aircraft often operate in the 400V range.

More applicable to us than the 42V systems, would be the 16V systems. They use a voltage tap, to give you 12V for your regular equipment, but allow you to also draw 16V for things like ignition systems, fuel pumps, etc. It requires significant modification of the wiring, and maybe the car - I doubt a 16V battery would fit in the stock battery box, so you'd probably need to do some custom work to fit the larger battery - but it would be very cool.

clar: amperage is a function of draw. Think of it like a volume of water (voltage would be similar to pressure).

Now, if you have a water tank, and tap it at a certain depth, you get a certain pressure, no matter how wide the tank is, or how large the pipe diameter. The pressure is just a function of the weight of the water, to that depth. That's like the 12 volts of your system.

If you put in a bigger alternator, that's like putting in a wider water tank. The pressure is the same, because the pipe attaches at the same depth, but there is more water available to use.

Add a few more loads to your system, and it's like adding more draws on your water main. Imagine that each load is a pump. If you have a bunch of pumps running, and the pipe is too small, you'll draw too fast, and run the pipe dry. This is like overheating a wire due to putting too many loads on a small wire.

So, you need to put in a larger wire/pipe, to prevent that. But if you put a large load at one point, you can make the pipe smaller after that point.

In other words, you need to go large-guage, to the point where the load is. So, it depends where you plan on attaching this large load. You need to run a large enough guage to carry the load, at any point. But the load won't be "pushed" into areas that you don't have a draw, so you don't need to run large wire to your wiper motor, just because you run a large amp and a large alternator to supply it.

It will depend on how you wire it, but let's look at a common example, where a second fuse box is attached at the main fuse panel, to connect some new equipment (let's say, an amp, an electric fuel pump, and a pair of electric fans). Let's say the fans each draw 20 amps, the amp draws 15, and the fuel pump draws 10 (note: I just made those numbers up - don't use them as actual estimates). And let's say that the car, itself, draws 80 amps at the main panel. So, you have 80 amps at the main, and you're adding 65 amps. So you'll need to run 145-amp wire from the alternator to the main panel, and 65-amp wire from the main panel to the second fuse box.

Make sense?

Joe
 
Ok thanks for the indepth breakdown guess ,I need a second fuse box to do it correctly , diden't realise it would be this involved,so I should pull the wireing harness to reatach the new wire from the alt. not just splice one in, and where off of the main fuse box would I attach anouther fuse box
I am committed now, have the vette torn down in the drive way , have ordered fans and radiator replacing water pump and have removed the alt stock was 63 amp,
Ok one more question no longer have ac less draw there not shure of the amount of amps,but has to be fairly strong, so I hook the fans up to this lead won't my amps pretty much ballance out or close and the stock wire never was drawing max load from factory
excuse me for being kind of lame here you would never now I am a Electrical Menechical Engineer commerical certificed, but thats all 3 phase alterinating current

when It comes to the dc electrical as you can tell kind of slow just a shade tree menechic.... thanks for the input .....:confused
 
You could run an additional wire from the battery to a fuse block, then connect your additional accessories to that fuse block. The AC wiring is still available.

Mike
 
BTW - There's a pro rebuilt 135 amp alt for sale on Ebay for 70 bucks, requires no change to existing wiring.

Mike
 
Thanks for the input very helpfull ...................
 
clar: I haven't looked at my fuse panel yet, but most cars will have a main always-on buss, and a switched buss. The other place to tap the always-on power would be the starter solenoid. You can tap the switched power to trigger relays, to prevent systems from running when the key is off.

Mike: The power draw in a running car is from the alternator, not the battery. The battery is basically just there to operate the starter (and any accessories that run when the ignition is in "accessory" position), and to act as a buffer while driving. Running a wire from the battery will cause more power to run through the alternator-to-battery connection, possibly over-amping that wire.

Joe
 
Joe,

The battery is a storage device as long as you can store what the vehicle needs to run and restore what it needs to run the car will run. Take your battery out and see how long the car runs, alternator doesn't run a car alone, it needs a chargeable device, what needs to happen is the alternator and battery need to make up for the amp draw of the vehicle, my 2 cents.

Mike
 
That's what I meant by saying the battery acts as a buffer. The alternator does not produce steady power - at high rpms, it produces more than is needed; at low rpms, it produces less.

But the alternator is the power supply, even if the battery helps it out a bit, at times. If you connect a load at the battery, it will draw power through the wiring, from the alternator all the way to the battery.

That's why I'd suggest connecting up in the engine compartment, where the wires can be upgraded to the correct gauge.

Joe
 
I think an alternator produces voltage, not power. (well, it produces both, but for illustration, lets say voltage). The voltage will depend on how quickly the magnetic field captured by the coils is changing, therefore a faster RPM will yield higher voltages. Modern alternators are internally regulated, which means they will adjust themselves to produce 14v (?) at all times. They do this by (as far as understand it and want to simplify) basically turning on and off rapidly.
Think of it as a water hose thats at like 10psi, and i want it to be 5. If i turn the hose on and off so that it is on for half of the time, you woudl assume id get 5psi but it woudl be very spurty, so they put in i believe capacitors to smooth it out (think of a water tank with a spigot at the bottom....your spurty flow doesnt mean anything to the water coming out the bottom).
The amount of current induced will put a load on the coil (torque) and the engine has to compensate for it. At higher RPMs, the alternator wuld be producing too much voltage so it will be off more.
Dunno, just recanting what I read off a website a long time ago. BTW, Alternators are AC current, with anther piece of circuitry that reverses the current every half cycle, so the AC engineer can chime in.
 

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