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Dead Battery: Trickle Charge or Battery Disconnect

Idea-
get one of those jump battery units and keep it in the car. that way you will have a spare to jump start yourself.
Actually I considered that but then the issue is that I need to lug it back and forth ,spring and fall .The C6 vert has little or no storage room .Therefore I've taken GM recommendation and disconnect the battery and I've had no problem in the past 10 years .

Thanks for your suggestion though :D
 
Actually I considered that but then the issue is that I need to lug it back and forth ,spring and fall .The C6 vert has little or no storage room .Therefore I've taken GM recommendation and disconnect the battery and I've had no problem in the past 10 years .

Thanks for your suggestion though :D
I've been disconnecting since 1973 without a/any problems. I remove the battery in the 99, takes 5min.The 88 is a little more involved, so we just disconnect. And for peace of mind, I'd rather not have an unattented vehicle plugged into house current 110/120V. When spring comes around just charge the battery if it needs it. In my case I connect and go. Has anyone seen a Corvette burn?? It isn't pretty.
 
I've been disconnecting since 1973 without a/any problems. I remove the battery in the 99, takes 5min.The 88 is a little more involved, so we just disconnect. And for peace of mind, I'd rather not have an unattented vehicle plugged into house current 110/120V. When spring comes around just charge the battery if it needs it. In my case I connect and go. Has anyone seen a Corvette burn?? It isn't pretty.

I totally agree and yes I have seen the results of a 1967 BB or what fire car do to fiberglass ,your right it's not pretty.

It's also so much fun to remove the battery on a C4 ,I had an 87 and I couldn't wait .:D

Hey I'll wave on my way to florida ,I go right down 84/81 .:thumb
 
For the tires just over pressure tires for storage 15 psi over your normal settings and do not forget to check the PSI in the spring. Its worked for me on my vehicles for years without any problems.

So over inflating that much is not an issue? The recommended pressure is 30 lbs. so you are saying a 50% increase will not be a problem? Obviously it would not be good to drive at that pressure but for storage it is OK? That would be much easier than taking up and down on jack stands. ;)

Anyone have any secrets for moisture control? I've heard of using cat litter or charcoal briquettes (without lighter fluid) on tin foil or tin pans.

Thanks!
 
;)

Anyone have any secrets for moisture control? I've heard of using cat litter or charcoal briquettes (without lighter fluid) on tin foil or tin pans.

Thanks!
The charcoal works very well when I use to do it .I covered the charcoal with a paper towel .(not sure why :)) Now it's been years since I stored my vett in cold country but I also placed a layer of poly on the concrete under the car .I over inflated only a few pounds and placed carpet samples under each tire .(not sure why again :))I can only say that I always felt good and my car always had a smile.:thumb
 
Ya got me on this one Hib.Now the car is stored in a self storage unit in Orlando 4-8 weeks at a time .There is no electricity available.

I usually fly in from Maine or New Hampshire on a late flight So if I don't feel like waiting two hours for AAA .

What do I do Hib?;shrug

In that case, either disconnect the battery or find a better storage unit which has electrical service.

Understand that as ordinary batteries age, they begain to exhibit some degree of "self-discharge" even with disconnected. Once that happens to the point that the charge level after your 4-8 weeks is low enough that the batt. won't start the engine, then you're into repetitive deep cycles (ie: discharge over 4-8 weeks then jump starting by AAA). Repetive deep cycles are the kiss of death for typical "consuer-grade" automotive batteries. Once you do that a couple times, you buy a new battery.

In your sitch, I'd put a high-end, AGM, pure-lead plate battery (ie: Odyssey Battery, Diehard Platinum, etc) in the car. Then, each time you go away, make sure it's fully charged, then disconnect it. A high-end batt. like that will stay fully charged while disconnected and will be able to sustain that duty-cycle for a number of years.

Also, when you conect and disconnect, always do the negative terminal first on disconnect and last on reconnect.
 
I think someone makes a solar powered battery charger for storage purposes, but not sure whom? Don't know if it's a "smart" charger either. Orlando should be sunny enough for it to work.:D
 
I totally agree and yes I have seen the results of a 1967 BB or what fire car do to fiberglass ,your right it's not pretty.

It's also so much fun to remove the battery on a C4 ,I had an 87 and I couldn't wait .:D

Hey I'll wave on my way to florida ,I go right down 84/81 .:thumb
That would be nice, give me a heads up and we'll have lunch on your route
 
I heard, to keep the mice/chipmunks/gerbils and the like out of your car during storage, use dryer sheet's, you know, fabric softeners like Bounce.....
 
BigJimZ16 and redvett,

Thanks very much for the replies!!!

I had just started to figure out the difference between the trickle charger vs. battery tender - never knew about the battery tender until today.

Also thanks for the tip about NOT starting occasionally. Any other storage suggestions? Do you guys put the car on jack stands to avoid flat spots in the tires or anything like that? How about any moisture absorbing material?

Any storage tips at all from anyone will be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Keith
Change oil,clean & wax, drive until throughly warmed up and put you baby away and for get it with tires 15psi above recommended settings and put the tender on along with a car cover.
 
Not sure if all have seen this article, but I thought I would post the link here since it is on subject. Very good article IMO. Some of it has been covered in this post, but it is still a good source of info.

Corvette Action Center | Tech Center | Practical Corvette Care 101 | Corvette Long-Term / Winter Storage
Here's the operative paragraph from that article:

We asked David Scott at GM if battery disconnection was a viable option for newer Corvettes. "Actually, it is because there are circuits using power when the vehicle is "off". Without a "Battery Tender" as you mentioned, the circuits would drain a battery in about 30 - 40 days. General Motors does not require / mandate that an owner have a charger going. We have typically recommended disconnecting the battery."
 
Here's the operative paragraph from that article:

We asked David Scott at GM if battery disconnection was a viable option for newer Corvettes. We have typically recommended disconnecting the battery."

And this is what I was told by another Knowledgeable person at BG .:thumb
 
I have two Vette's that are laid up in the winter, I look at it this way, :ughFIRE...........Disconnecting eliminates that issue if it arises, A battery tender means to me that the unattened vehicles electrical sys.,( usually 4 months) is HOT, s&*t happens, I'd rather the vehicle goes thru it's learning process and reprogram the radio than deal with the other possibilities. In the spring I reconnect and I'm good to go, most of the time without charging the battery, if I left either 88/99 batt. connected for the lay up, without a doubt they would be completely dead...........

I'm with you. Fortunately I live where I can still drive my Vette in the (50%) winter, so no need to store longer than a couple weeks but no bty problem. I think I would d/c the neg terminal if I was storing though.
 
Dead Battery, C 6 Coupe, 2008 model

:mad
Just went thru this the other day with my 07. Dead battery, towed to dealer (still under warranty), dealer charged battery and told me to put a Battery Tender on it if it's going to sit for more than 2 weeks.
Just joined from U.K. My new 'vette garaged, for 6-8 weeks in heated garage has dead battery. No response to keyless access fob. Not even bootlid. Problem? Is there any way to access the car with damaging bodywork/glass. I know there is manual access from boot, but that's locked. Driver's door window open about one inch. Too small for hand/arm entry. Once I'm into the car and battery is charged up will join debate on battery tender/trickle charger controversy.

greengrass.;shrug
 
:mad
Just joined from U.K. My new 'vette garaged, for 6-8 weeks in heated garage has dead battery. No response to keyless access fob. Not even bootlid. Problem? Is there any way to access the car with damaging bodywork/glass. I know there is manual access from boot, but that's locked. Driver's door window open about one inch. Too small for hand/arm entry. Once I'm into the car and battery is charged up will join debate on battery tender/trickle charger controversy.

greengrass.;shrug
Wait!!! Don't break anything!!:L:L:L

There is a key to open the trunk the access is just above the license plate hidden in the bumper!!:thumb
 
:mad
Just joined from U.K. My new 'vette garaged, for 6-8 weeks in heated garage has dead battery. No response to keyless access fob. Not even bootlid. Problem? Is there any way to access the car with damaging bodywork/glass. I know there is manual access from boot, but that's locked. Driver's door window open about one inch. Too small for hand/arm entry. Once I'm into the car and battery is charged up will join debate on battery tender/trickle charger controversy.

greengrass.;shrug

Wait!!! Don't break anything!!:L:L:L

There is a key to open the trunk the access is just above the license plate hidden in the bumper!!:thumb

Junkie is correct: I've had to use this a couple of times myself. The keyhole is fairly well hidden, so you'll need to get down on your knees and look up at the underside of the licence plate area to find it. The key will open up the rear hatch, and from there you can access the manual driver's door release tab. Pull the tab, and you're into the car.

And welcome to the :CAC Greengrass!
 
Junkie is correct: I've had to use this a couple of times myself. The keyhole is fairly well hidden, so you'll need to get down on your knees and look up at the underside of the licence plate area to find it. The key will open up the rear hatch, and from there you can access the manual driver's door release tab. Pull the tab, and you're into the car.

And welcome to the :CAC Greengrass!
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Sorry,the Key pulls out of the chrome end of the fob!:thumb

Welcome!:thumb
 
:mad
Just joined from U.K. My new 'vette garaged, for 6-8 weeks in heated garage has dead battery. No response to keyless access fob. Not even bootlid. Problem? Is there any way to access the car with damaging bodywork/glass. I know there is manual access from boot, but that's locked. Driver's door window open about one inch. Too small for hand/arm entry. Once I'm into the car and battery is charged up will join debate on battery tender/trickle charger controversy.

greengrass.;shrug
I just recd your thread and it looks as though you've been answered. Yepper....your FOB had a key inside it. Remove and go to rear of car, look under rr fascia and find key slot/lock. Unlock trunk (bootlid). Inside trunk look left (inside) qtr panel and find wire with tab on end. One for door and one for gas door. I wanted to mention that on (Mid-America I think is where I found this) they sell a cable set that will connect to bty and will allow you to connect trickle charger and also also allow you to connect power if suddenly goes dead. You dont really have to have it though.....it's just a convience item by have the cable already stowed under there and has diode to prevent backflowing power. good luck :)
 

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