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Leaky Head Gaskets - Check this out!

chevyaddict

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2002
Messages
894
Location
Tucson, AZ USA
Corvette
1990 Convertible
I finally, after months of procrastination, lots of cussing, sweat, blood and tears got the heads off my 90. I knew that I had a blown head gasket on the driver's side (why it happened I had no clue, however). Check out the attached pics.... has anyone ever seen anything like this? Engine only has a little over 100K miles on it. I've never seen a head gasket disintegrate like this. The passenger side was starting to as well and would have started leaking too in short order.... weird eh?

BTW, this has been the job from HELL thanks to many broken off bolts everywhere..... what a pain. C4's are hard to work on!
 
I'm betting around cylinders 7 and 8? I don't believe a headgasket failure on the later L98's is uncommon. I believe the problem is GM either used the wrong headgasket. Or it is because you have an iron block with aluminum heads, so you can get galvanic corrosion. And I've also heard it is because the back of the block around 7 and 8 get really hot.

I think in 91 GM changed the headgasket design to solve that problem.

How did you first find out you had a blown headgasket? I know they make that blue solution you stick over the radiator to see if you have exhaust fumes in the coolant. On my 89, it checked out fine.

I do wonder if running the car a little cooler might prevent or delay a headgasket failure on the L98's.
 
How did you first find out you had a blown headgasket? I know they make that blue solution you stick over the radiator to see if you have exhaust fumes in the coolant. On my 89, it checked out fine. I do wonder if running the car a little cooler might prevent or delay a headgasket failure on the L98's.

I've already got a brand new HUGE aluminum radiator in it because the car was running hot. Fixed that a couple years ago. I had what looked like a little man behind the engine taking a pee out the back... it was this little stream of water and with some strategic mirror angling I could tell it was coming from the head and the block. No water in the oil or compression leaks so I figured it was just a blown head gasket.

And I just had a friend tell me about electrolysis that can happen if the gasket ring is steel against the aluminum. They suggested making sure I use copper gaskets... does anyone else concur with this?
 
I Do

I'm not a metalurgest (sp?) but I do know there are times when aluminum and steel are not compatable, this may be one of them unfortunately for you.
 
I've already got a brand new HUGE aluminum radiator in it because the car was running hot. Fixed that a couple years ago. I had what looked like a little man behind the engine taking a pee out the back... it was this little stream of water and with some strategic mirror angling I could tell it was coming from the head and the block. No water in the oil or compression leaks so I figured it was just a blown head gasket.

And I just had a friend tell me about electrolysis that can happen if the gasket ring is steel against the aluminum. They suggested making sure I use copper gaskets... does anyone else concur with this?

Yeah, I can see how that would look like an obvious problem. Alot of times people have a blown headgasket and not know it. My 89 does not overheat. I've even driven it without the 3 piece air deflector, and it still doesn't over heat. So, I should be fine. Though, if I do get a headgasket leak, I'd try and find someone to do it on the side who knows what they are doing.

If you take it to a shop, they will charge you $50+ per hour to change the headgaskets. So, thats around $1k in labor. I'm sure I could find someone to do it on the side if I also help them for around $10-$15 an hour.
 
I finally, after months of procrastination, lots of cussing, sweat, blood and tears got the heads off my 90. I knew that I had a blown head gasket on the driver's side (why it happened I had no clue, however). Check out the attached pics.... has anyone ever seen anything like this? Engine only has a little over 100K miles on it. I've never seen a head gasket disintegrate like this. The passenger side was starting to as well and would have started leaking too in short order.... weird eh?
:thumb:thumb:thumb

Age got them, Not miles!!:L
Just get a set of Fel Pro gaskets and don't worry about it for another 15-20 years!!:thumb:thumb:thumb
 
Just curious, is there something you can spray on the head bolts to make them easier to get out?

I am about to do mine and would REALLY like to not deal with broken head bolts on my 93.
 
Hey, Junk, I'm not sure but are those head bolts reusable or are they torque to yield. Might be helpful to these guys if they need to get new head bolts but don't realize it.

Seems like all the newer stuff is torque to yield.
 
Hey, Junk, I'm not sure but are those head bolts reusable or are they torque to yield. Might be helpful to these guys if they need to get new head bolts but don't realize it.

Seems like all the newer stuff is torque to yield.

I'd probably replace them either way. Really don't want to break off one of those bolts, or it to come loose later.
 
Just curious, is there something you can spray on the head bolts to make them easier to get out?

I am about to do mine and would REALLY like to not deal with broken head bolts on my 93.

I didn't have any problem with the head bolts.. it was the intake manifold bolts into the heads that were part of the problem. Those torx head bolts are a nightmare and I'm not putting them back on the car. That was part of the problem because they strip out easy. I've never heard of head bolts themselves getting stuck....
 
a couple of ideas for ya .10 i would get cometic head gaskets they make some of the finest head gaskets around . i would stay away from copper as they have a tendancy to leak . you could get head studs for the head bolts better clamping and reusable too . on the intake what us zr1ers do is change over to stainless steel allen bolts .you could use a little blue loctight if you like . hope this helps
 
also you could go over to the zr1 registry site and get ahold of flynryan .he builds some of the best drag race engines around and could guide you in the very best stuff to use so you dont have to go through this mess again
 
also you could go over to the zr1 registry site and get ahold of flynryan .he builds some of the best drag race engines around and could guide you in the very best stuff to use so you dont have to go through this mess again

Thanks! I'll check that out!
 
If it makes you feel better

I have had the same problem with more than one L98. Like Junk said " it's the age that gets you."

The only thing I encountered more miserable to remove and install than the TPI induction system was the Mini-Ram until today. Getting the water pump off of the 455 Olds in the GMC rates #1 in busted knuckles and hours per bolt.:mad

Use a zinc sulfate anti-seize when you put it back together and end the problem of stuck bolts forever.
 
I have had the same problem with more than one L98. Like Junk said " it's the age that gets you."

The only thing I encountered more miserable to remove and install than the TPI induction system was the Mini-Ram until today. Getting the water pump off of the 455 Olds in the GMC rates #1 in busted knuckles and hours per bolt.:mad

Use a zinc sulfate anti-seize when you put it back together and end the problem of stuck bolts forever.

I don't think it really is an age thing with regards to the L98, but more of a design flaw. To where GM issued a service bulletin and redesigned the heads in 91. So, they new of the problem way back then when these cars were only a few years old.
 
Olds 455 in a GMC ????? diesel replacement ?? Biggest pain on olds is power steering pump has to come off.

Glenn
 

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