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Dart or Merlin 9.80" deck block for 540 cid, 10.20" deck for 572 cid. I'm not aware of anyone building 572's on a short decks. Can't remember why...sumthin' about two objects occupying the same space at the same time. :D

Fear not, there'll be plenty of more 62's out there fer sale. I don't suggest a Fuelie as yer first C1. Will undoubtably cost substantially more and they have a distinctive "learning curve" to get them tuned just right. Carb would be better choice first time out.

These kits use the large single calipers out of 70's F/A-body cars..simple, cheap, reliable - more than adaquate to haul down a C1 quickly. Forget about a booster, even the smallest 7" dia. units will never fit on the tight C1 firewall, they're unneccessary on the lightweight C1 anyway. The MC...

Where's yer smugglers hat ?...moonshiners used to fill there tanks with alcohol. Who's ta' say that ole 250 straight sixer in that 67 Chevy can't roll back across the Rainbow bridge as a 540 V8 ?

Yup, left rear kickup and endcaps are always the problem (passing lane side). Northern cars that have seen ANY winter usage in a salting zone during there life will show some degree of rust there. Drivers door gap should indicate how bad the frame is flexing. Options: 1) There ARE decent frame...

No such animal... RPO N11 (round "off-road" mufflers) weren't an OPTION on C1's until 1962. They were about 30" long x 5" dia, no internal baffles, only perforations. The mufflers/tailpipes were welded as an assembly. The right side muffler had stainless endcaps to tolerate corrosion caused by...

www.thermotec.com/products/full/full.html

$16K isn't bad. Any complete C1 for under $20k is reasonable. No doubt about it, your better off buying a done car anymore. If you got sticker shock from that one, how about this chassis for your project: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2445820919&category=6168

I'm assuming you're running the factory "oval" mufflers. In 62 you could order the "round" (off road) mufflers as a factory option. Offers a less restrictive, slightly louder sound, many suppliers carry repro rounds. Another option are flowmaster mufflers for that slightly metallic "rap", a...

I saw something similar done on a 65 BB coupe at a car show this summer. He ran oem BB manifolds & downpipes, split them with a pair of these: www.quicktimeperformance.com/qtec.htm, ran a set of 2.5" "GNM" side pipes from: www.sweet-thunder.com/ses_65-67_vette.htm, and full 2.5" oem stock...

The intake manifold heat crossover is designed strictly to heat the carb/choke for faster engine warm-ups (and eventual carb destruction, but thats a topic for another day). The chamber is too small too be of any benefit in pulse balancing. Exhaust cross-over pipes are most efficient down...

A crossover pipe will balance the exhaust pulses between the cylinders. Scavenging and torque will increase slightly, exhaust tone will mellow slightly (less "raspy").

Anodizing applies a thin, transparent, very hard surface coating to the item in an electrically charged solution bath. The only proper way to "restore" an anodized part is to reverse polarize the item in the same manner (un-anodizing) first, then restore the metal surface (polish, sand etc.) the...

...well put. Today's Y-generation = Japanese ricers. X-gen = 80's Cam/Fire, T-Buicks/Montes. W-gen = 60's-70's A,F,B-bodys. V-gen = 30's/40's/50's rods, 55'6'7 Chevys. U-gen = 10's/20's Model A's/T's Todays "pop'ular ricer Genre will also pan out, the kids will mature, yet a few will still...

vin # can't tell you the original color and trim tags didn't come out until 1963. Places to check for original color are deep under the dash, behind footwell kick panels, inside doors, or behind the trunk/top well barrier.

agreed...just aren't enough C1's left that haven't already been fixed or restored. ARCHIVES ! ARCHIVES! ARCHIVES! are you're most valuable resource for info. Virtually every one of the folks who've restored their C1 over the past 5 years have crossed paths with CAC, CF or NCRS boards. Search...

Shifter AND install kit: Hurst # 4070015 (7.5" handle) Here's Long's $400 alternative: www.g-forcetransmissions.com/shifter_5_hn1000.asp The C2/Hurst handle is not a factory Hurst item, its an aftermarket offering...Corvette America or who knows ?

..yup, and most them are pack rats who suffer separation anxiety so theres usually various old appliances and farm machinery strewn about as well. Every one those old cars are sitting outside in fields, behind barns, under trees etc. etc. The only reason this one was moved indoors was because...

Also, if you have a Hurst shifter, many of them have 2 shift arm "stops" (1st/3rd, 2nd/4th) on the shifter body that could be preventing 2nd gear from engaging all the way.

1966 was the last year for real "teak" wood steering wheels. You need a 67 plastic "simulated wood" wheel to be correct. These are less expensive but climbing in price. I paid $225 at last years Carlisle for a real nice one (no chips/scratches in the plastic). If you want a real wood wheel...