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Do Roller Tip Rocker Arms Need Constant Adjusting?

fine69

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2004
Messages
975
Location
Maryland / D.C.
Corvette
'69 Convertible Vette; '72 Z28 Camaro Rally Sport
I have a recurring problem with my roller tip rocker arms... they keep becoming misaligned with the valve/spring! I adjusted them last week, and the engine was running nice and strong. Today it started missing, sputtering and backfiring again. I removed the valve cover, and the rocker arms were misaligned again.

I have the Performer RPM .510 lift cam (hydraulic) and wanted to be able to use the LT-1 style valve covers. These are 1.5 ratio roller tip rocker arms.

I attached a photo. Is this milagnment and readjustment characteristic of these type of rocker arms? Should I revert to the standard style i.e., "shoe" type? Any suggestions/recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Do you have pushrod guideplates installed?
Have you thought about "poly-locks"?

I had an issue with a 305 I built for my YT that required "Self-aligning" rockers with early style heads that should not be needed but looks like you have aftermarket heads. Try contacting the manufacturer to see what style rockers they recommend.
 
I agree with bossvette. Easy for me to say! :D

At any rate, you have a grrrrrrreat lookin' engine! I can just imagine the work you put into your baby!

Save The Wave! :w
 
fine69 said:
I have a recurring problem with my roller tip rocker arms... they keep becoming misaligned with the valve/spring! I adjusted them last week, and the engine was running nice and strong. Today it started missing, sputtering and backfiring again. I removed the valve cover, and the rocker arms were misaligned again.

I have the Performer RPM .510 lift cam (hydraulic) and wanted to be able to use the LT-1 style valve covers. These are 1.5 ratio roller tip rocker arms.

I attached a photo. Is this milagnment and readjustment characteristic of these type of rocker arms? Should I revert to the standard style i.e., "shoe" type? Any suggestions/recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks!
Misalignment at #3 exhaust looks BAD!

The others' problems are probably similar ...Here's a suggestion for #3 I&E ... the pushrod guide plate needs to be moved forward ... if you have not already doped the bottoms of rocker studs with teflon seal or other sealant ... remove, clean all threads & dope all of them ... if you have, then slightly loosen one pair of rocker studs at a time ... loosen just enough for the guide plate to be pried/shifted ... and shift the guide plate ... in the case of #3 it seems the guide plate needs to shift forward. Re-torque rocker studs ... while tightening studs, keep careful eye on guide plate to ensure it does not shift as you re-torque studs. G'Luck
 
bossvette said:
Do you have pushrod guideplates installed?
Have you thought about "poly-locks"?

I had an issue with a 305 I built for my YT that required "Self-aligning" rockers with early style heads that should not be needed but looks like you have aftermarket heads. Try contacting the manufacturer to see what style rockers they recommend.

Poly-locks... I'll look into that and will also contact Edelbrock. Thanks.
 
Jack said:
Misalignment at #3 exhaust looks BAD!

The others' problems are probably similar ...Here's a suggestion for #3 I&E ... the pushrod guide plate needs to be moved forward ... if you have not already doped the bottoms of rocker studs with teflon seal or other sealant ... remove, clean all threads & dope all of them ... if you have, then slightly loosen one pair of rocker studs at a time ... loosen just enough for the guide plate to be pried/shifted ... and shift the guide plate ... in the case of #3 it seems the guide plate needs to shift forward. Re-torque rocker studs ... while tightening studs, keep careful eye on guide plate to ensure it does not shift as you re-torque studs. G'Luck

Thanks Guys...

Do you all think regular, non-roller tip rockers would also help reduce this problem?
 
Id check for coil bind at full lift or the spring retainer hitting the guide, ive seen the same thing happen because of those problems.
 
black_81_vette said:
Id check for coil bind at full lift or the spring retainer hitting the guide, ive seen the same thing happen because of those problems.

I don't remember if the rocker studs are screw in or press in? if they are the later the stud might be pulling out!
 
This is the Edelbrock Performer RPM setup. The intake, hydraulic cam, and heads are supposedly dyno'd to work together. The heads came with the valves, springs, guide plates, screw-in studs, but not the rocker arms (go figure).

I'm going to cut an opening in a spare stamped valve cover and adjust the rocker arms with a running engine. I am anxious to get this running again and would like to do it tonight, but it's too darn cold out there (19 degrees Farenheit !) and the space heater in the garage just doesn't cut it!


Here's a closeup of intake/exhaust rockers of #3 cylinder. It's puzzling why these would shift over like this....

As good measure, I'm inclined to replace with regular rocker arms (with the longer slotted stud opening to compensate for the high lift), and locking nuts... good/bad idea?
 
apparently the #3 guide plate is off location, the valve, stud and pushrod should be in line. There is always the possibility the guideplate was manufactured off location. I would compare a known good one with your #3 and go from there; perhaps #3 is for a 7/16 stud and you have 3/8 studs that would allow for missalignment/cocking of the guide plate.

the roller rockers are not causing the problem unless they are "backing off"
 
Now you show a bigger pic ... I can see even better ... and confirms. Sooo ... as I said before ... the guide plate NEEDS to be shifted forward.

Valvetrain/motor will NOT live long like it is now!

See the half-moon cutout around the headbolt in middle of guideplate??? see how the half-moon is not centered about headbolt but is shifted to rear??? ... needs to move forward! If you'll shift guideplate forward it'll cause the rockers to rotate counter-clockwise about studs and properly locate tips on top of valve stems. You should check ALL 8 guideplates for proper alignment & ALL 16 studs for proper torque.

It is normal for these things to need alignment/setup when newly installed ... no real point in *****ing to EB.

BTW ... MOST ... not all ... MOST screwin studs have 7/16 bottoms ... regardless if 3/8 or 7/16 tops. Accordingly, MOST guideplates' stud holes are larger than 7/16 ... so that they can be shifted.

IMHO ... you need not buy different rockers nor cut up a valve cover nor buy polylocks ... but do correctly setup the guideplates for your motor.
JACK:gap
 
Bossvette and Jack,

Thanks for the advice. I adjusted the guide plate, got the rocker arms nice and centered. I was able to go around the block, before she started sputtering and backfiring again. When I removed the valve cover, #3 cylinder rocker arms were offset again.

I spoke with the owner of the machine shop who did this work, and he is going to actually send someone over to my house this Thursday to check it out and make the correct adjustments.

(Sigh....) I'm get some other things done around the house for now... and will get back to this later... what a love/hate relationship.

Thanks again, guys.
 
What is the proper way to align guide plates? I have guide plates on my heads, but I've never seen any info or pictures on the proper way to align them.

Thanks,
 
fine69 said:
I adjusted the guide plate, got the rocker arms nice and centered. I was able to go around the block, before she started sputtering and backfiring again. When I removed the valve cover, #3 cylinder rocker arms were offset again.
You didn't say if the guideplate was tight when you first checked it??? You didn't say if the guideplate had also shifted again along w/ rockers after you realigned plate??? If so, then plate ain't tight enough. If plate did not shift again, then you may have some bent pushrods. Regardless, I'd pull ALL 16 pushrods & check each for straightness.
 
glen242 said:
What is the proper way to align guide plates? I have guide plates on my heads, but I've never seen any info or pictures on the proper way to align them. Thanks,
If your rockers are properly aligned to valve tips then the plate alignment is ok. Check that first ... then worry about it only if you see a problem. This should be checked upon valve train assembly. There's probably a book on this ... but I don't know where or what it is. If you'll read through my above posts ... and look closely at how your valve train works ... you should be able to figure it out ... it's really simple ... dumbazz me can do it.
JACK:gap
 
? what did you find ?

fine69 said:
I spoke with the owner of the machine shop who did this work, and he is going to actually send someone over to my house this Thursday to check it out and make the correct adjustments.
Let's see ... that was over a week ago ... what did the experts find?
JACK:gap
 
I believe you are getting coil bind with the .510 lift cam if you are using the stock springs and the heads have not been machined in the spring pockets. I would almost bet you have a bent pushrod. Good luck.

Randy
 
Jack said:
Let's see ... that was over a week ago ... what did the experts find?
JACK:gap

Rocker arms replaced with Crane Cam stamped variety. The guy came over, made adjustments. Nothing bent or broken. He believes the problem is timing related.

He is supposed to come over again tomorrow after 1:00 pm... I have a 6:30 am hockey game, and then 10:00 lacrosse practice, whew...
 
vette-dude said:
I believe you are getting coil bind with the .510 lift cam if you are using the stock springs and the heads have not been machined in the spring pockets. I would almost bet you have a bent pushrod. Good luck.

Randy

The heads are Edelbrock Performer RPMs that come with springs, etc. that are matched to the Edelbrock cam. Pushrods are all straight. Thanks.
 

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